As the title says I am doing a performance top end "swap" on my 99 v10. Initially the project was going to be gears and a locker but my head/head gasket said other wise. I will be determining the failure and adding that, for now though I was going through more than a quart of coolant every 1hr of run time. The "swap" is some modified factory equipment and a custom reground cam. I will update with photos and video as I progress through this but here is the quick of what I am doing.

Cylinder head: Mild port and polish/bowl blend, mopar performance springs and retainer for the magnum v8s, stainless steel viper valves 2.02" intake (stock 1.92") 1.60" exh (same as stock), and decked .015" (.005" net shaved with the Fel pro head gasket vs stock)

Cam: Crower custom regrind to my specs. Single pattern .478" lift, 216 deg duration at .050", with a 110 LSA. Now these are specs on the v10 1.7:1 factory rockers, some people say it's closer to 1.65:1. That is the most lift they could grind out with doing the 110 lsa. I was really focusing on the lsa for mid range torque since the truck is lifted and I use it mainly for towing and off roading. Mopar performance magnum v8 065 lifters.

Intake lower: mild port/polish

Intake upper: CNC opening to accommodate a 108mm x 56mm mono-blade 3d printed carbon fiber reinforced throttle body done by Utasome performance.

Tune: So far an initial startup tune by Marty at Utasome performance. He also gave some advice on the cam.

I already have some JBA headers and will be getting a dual exhaust done at the completion of this project and running it on the dyno.

So far I have the old heads off. As I am waiting on my harmonic balancer puller to do the cam I will do a thorough inspection of the head gaskets and head to see where the issue was. However there is evidence that the someone has been in there before, Various things like mis-matched zip tie colors, and a one of the heads is orange under the flaking black paint. To add to the mystery when I was breaking the head bolts loose the longer upper bolts were as tight as you would expect. However the lower shorter external bolts were barely tight in comparison, like someone skipped the final torque (43ft lbs followed by 105ft lbs final). Both heads were like this and I am scratching my head. There isn't even the tell tale skinny section of a properly stretched bolt on the shorts but there is in the long. By comparison the donor motor for the cylinder heads had this skinny section in both. Anyways updates to follow.

 

Sounds like fun!

 

So I think I may have solved the mystery of the under torqued head bolts. I looks like whoever was in there last didn't clean the coolant out of the lower head bolts and when they "torqued" the head bolts they were also compressing that coolant or they flat out missed 2nd torque on all lower bolts on both sides. Either way cylinder 9 was consuming coolant with a clear large mark on the head from one of the water jackets. Ran into a defective new lifter, they forgot to machine the spots for the aligning bar, that won't be here til next week. So I may update this with some pics/video over the weekend. I had to modify the air box for the new throttle body, took pictures of that as well.

 

So its been awhile since I updated this, progress has been good but, haven't had the time I want to do a proper update but I have a question. So I am just about done with everything but the accessory drive. As I was hooking up the plug wires I noticed this relay looking thing by the coil pack/ignition module connectors. Googled the part number,

4608359AB

CAPACITOR-RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION

What all the mopar parts sites are telling me is its for a stratus, pt cruiser, or neon 02-05. However it looks like it was never on a second gen or truck even. I am not sure where I took it off at and since there is no record of our trucks having these I am at a loss of where to hook it up. The wire is long enough to reach near the alternator but not all the way to it. Any input would be appreciated.

 

Do you have the infinity sound system in there??

 

I just checked my 01. Nothing like that on mine and I have the Infinity system. I wonder if someone might have installed cheap plug wires at some point and used that to stop the hissing in the stereo.

 

I do have the infinity system, I also have sub woofers (I added). I do get the hissing sound but at moderate sound levels its totally drowned out so I never bothered with it. It looks like on the cars it was attached to the coil bracket mounting bolts, which would be about the right length for the wire.

 

The term "radio noise suppression" may not be referring to the sound systems radio. There is good "radio" and bad. The good is the type that is tunable on your receivers. The bad is radio frequency energy which may be present in the environment that causes electronic circuits to malfunction by injecting so much unwanted noise energy into them until they cannot operate correctly. My guess is that cap goes on some susceptible control line somewhere to protect it from unwanted ambient RF.

 

That could be. I bolted it down with one of the coil bracket bolts like it shows for the cars that came on. I had lots of fun last night repairing vacuum lines and pulling the upper intake back off to do it. Hopefully that's the last backwards progress. I have taken some video and pics, I will do a big update once its running and after exhaust/ dyno.

 

Alright, I haven't done a good job updating this. However I have many short videos and some pics to post I'll try and edit into a single video. I haven't done any video editing so it may take awhile. However here is a teaser clip.