Well I didn't think the cam would cause suck erratic timing swings. In my experience with this generation dodge that's a coil issue. So I put my old coils back in, that's when I discovered a big mistake on my part. Lucky the motor is good, probably because it had very little run time like this Truck idles good and revs ok. Now over the next couple days I will be finishing putting it back together and test driving it. Will post an update then.

 

It lives, seems to be running quite well too. Going to drive it a bit over the next couple days to make sure but for once it finally feels like this monkey is coming off my back. Thank you to all that have helped so far.

 

I'm glad it was something simple. Hopefully you're all set now and nothing else pops up to cause issues.

 

So update. It took me a while, had some surgery and had to wait to get back at it. Installed an AEM wideband yesterday. Took it for a drive. Good thing it has a safe tune with no timing. At WOT it starts at 14:1 and finished 16:1 at 4800rpm. I think this set up moves more air than we anticipated. I forgot to buy the SCT cable for my x3 to wire to my wide band so I ordered that. With any luck I will have a datalog done before the weekend so Marty can get me a decent tune for my birthday coming up lol,

 

adukart My thinking that is too lean.

But for a curveball and not to hijack this thread I have a 96 V10 with under just 100K miles. I'm not wanting to go as far as you have with cam and valves but would like to clean up the intake ports, no extra porting, afraid to lose the low end and mill the heads to raise the compression to 9:1 from 8.4:1. I have no idea if milling alone can get me there but if it could would I still have valve clearance to the pistons? .6 of compression doesn't seem to be much to gain with a little milling (little haha) and if I would be able to run with 87 octane gas?

From what I have read elsewhere the ports are rather nasty for flow because of the casting junk in those ports. especially the intake ports.

If anyone has had experience with this please chime in.

adukart looking forwad to see what you have after exhaust and tuning.

 

I'll try and get some of this updated this weekend. Yeah the ports had a lot of casting junk, I primarily just cleaned up the casting. I've been really busy, but I did break a rocker bolt and bent a pushrod a couple months back. I have some photos of that. I do have some pics and short vids from the project I haven't organized yet too. Right now in the process of once again trying to diagnose why it won't warm up. Heater hoses are only 120F and the rad hose at the intake is only getting to 140F. It was a new thermostat with only a few hundred miles (number 3 now trying to fix this). So I am in the process of replacing it with a Caterpillar thermostat from a 3406. Its a slightly different design but fits perfect. I'll update that as well. High temp here today was around -14F, if the rest of winter is like this I won't be driving it much with how bad my heater is at those engine temps.

 

I was watching some videos on cleaning and or porting the heads and then found this to match a cam to an engine depending on the flow of the heads then the percentage of flow between the intake and exhaust second video below. If you only clean the intake open up the exhaust port for much better torque and HP.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPAeepqrY-0

 

 

Been awhile since I updated this at all. Here is a quick 0-60 run. Planning to go to the dyno in May. Keep in my with me this truck is about 7400lbs with me in it and on 35s.

 

How are the 3.92's with the 35's? Do you wish for deeper gears?