2001 Ram 1500 4x4 318ci. So lately I’ve noticed a binding while turning on pavement or even gravel. I’ve verified that I am not in 4WD, but it still bounces the steering wheel a bit while turning. Today I jacked it up and spun both wheels turned straight, both free spin. Then I turned them to lock and driver side still free spins but passenger side has a hard bind. It makes no noise when doing so, and you can see it move the tie rod when it goes over the ‘hump’ in the bind. I checked both sides for tie rod and ball joint looseness, and the U joints seemingly have no visible/audible wear or play. I’m thinking it’s the U joint, but it does not explain why it moves the tie rod. What do you guys think? Also, one of my front axle shaft seals is leaking, I probably won’t dive into that for a while but I need to change the fluid, it’s pretty dark. What type of fluid/how much do I need? No idea what type of axle this is and whether it’s LSD or not. Thanks guys

 

Agree sounds like u-joint. The tie rod moves a little because the u-joint doesn't move freely and needs a bit force which creates a reaction force in the knuckle. AFAIK there never was a front axle LSD from the factory, any random 80W-90 gear oil will work.

 

I THINK the off road edition did

 

Yep I bet it's the u-joint. If you don't want to pull the whole shaft at first to verify, drop the TRE out of the knuckle. Now position wheel such that u-joint is + and swing the wheel/knuckle as if turning. Then spin wheel 90 and repeat. If resistance changes, its the u-joint. Of course this is predicated on the odds that only one or two caps are really dry, which is almost surely the case. Rarely do all 4 deteriorate at the same rate

 

That’s a great idea, I might try it. Anything against buying standard autoparts store replacement? Or should I get the fancy Spicer one people talk about

 

The spicer ones aren't really that much more expensive, but, they LAST a LOT longer than the cheap fellers.

 

Copy that, good to know

 

5-760X or nothing. Although if you don't 'wheel it hard a Moog 371 could be ok. I keep stock of each depending upon a variety of factors.

 

Got a Spicer joint and put it in today, and changed the front diff fluid. The old u joint had only one rusty and dry bearing, the rest were decent. Glad it’s done, thanks for the help guys