Tranny and diff upgrades
I have a 2001 ram 1500 2wd with 3.55 rear gears. I'm about to have the tranny rebuilt next week, its pushing 2k miles and slipping bad. I'd also like to go with 3.92 gears in the back but I'm not sure what all I need to get the job done. The shop will do the rear end work but I need to supply parts. What all do I need?
The 9.25 doesn't have carrier breaks so you'll just need gearset of your choice (I'd try for Yukon thru Randy's) and install kit. Make sure your kit has all new carrier bearings and pinion bearings.
Also a good time to do wheel bearings and wheel seals and possibly drum brake shoes/hardware if warranted. All this stuff is optional, it's up to you.
Of course you'll need a couple quarts of gear oil if you're supplying everything.
If you really want a TAD (traction aiding differential) and don't already have the limited grip....er slip....now's the time but it'll increase cost considerably. If you already have the factory limited grip you'll want the parts to rebuild that, too...assuming you want to keep it and not replace with something better like a TruTrac. You'll want to know if you already have the limited grip when ordering parts. Or looks like a TrueTrac runs ~$600
https://www.jegs.com/i/Detroit-TrueT...3A368/10002/-1
If you have factory open diff and just want to keep that you won't need anything additional in that regard unless you get into it and find your spider and/or side gears are chewed up
Also a good time to do wheel bearings and wheel seals and possibly drum brake shoes/hardware if warranted. All this stuff is optional, it's up to you.
Of course you'll need a couple quarts of gear oil if you're supplying everything.
If you really want a TAD (traction aiding differential) and don't already have the limited grip....er slip....now's the time but it'll increase cost considerably. If you already have the factory limited grip you'll want the parts to rebuild that, too...assuming you want to keep it and not replace with something better like a TruTrac. You'll want to know if you already have the limited grip when ordering parts. Or looks like a TrueTrac runs ~$600
https://www.jegs.com/i/Detroit-TrueT...3A368/10002/-1
If you have factory open diff and just want to keep that you won't need anything additional in that regard unless you get into it and find your spider and/or side gears are chewed up
Originally Posted by Keith_L;[url=tel:3537355
3537355[/url]]Also, if realtors can't call it a master bedroom anymore pretty sure it's not a master install kit. Geez dude, soooo offensive!! 


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Detroit Truetrac and gear ratio according to size of tire/wheel you will be using, and a (master) rebuild kit. If you plan on drifting, an air locker, ARB or Yukon Grizzly, would be nice so both axles are locked together while drifting then turn it off for an open diff on the road. I rebuilt my trans with many performance parts. Get a shift kit (https://www.sonnax.com/sure_cure) put in while it's getting a rebuild, it wakes the trans up.
A tidbit of information,
The OEM gear-type LSDs (A couple of different mfg) will typically have a lower Torque Bias Ratio (TBR) than an aftermarket gear-type automatic torque biasing (ATB) differential. The torque bias ratio represents the amount of torque that is sent to the wheel with superior traction when one wheel encounters a slippery situation. Higher TBR values will help get more net power to the ground in these circumstances, look up Torque Bias Ratio to delve further on how posi/LS work
A tidbit of information,
The OEM gear-type LSDs (A couple of different mfg) will typically have a lower Torque Bias Ratio (TBR) than an aftermarket gear-type automatic torque biasing (ATB) differential. The torque bias ratio represents the amount of torque that is sent to the wheel with superior traction when one wheel encounters a slippery situation. Higher TBR values will help get more net power to the ground in these circumstances, look up Torque Bias Ratio to delve further on how posi/LS work













