If you replace the track bar on these trucks the front axle always shifts to the passenger side. Over the years I've learned to use my Coffing hoist to pull it back the the left a little. This works really well. Ratchet straps don't work as well as you think: 1" straps don't have the power and 2" straps are almost just too bulky and the huge ratchet mechanism is too long.

Yes, we should be upgrading to a 3rd Gen....but no time

 

Nice tip, however, like you stated, if time and $$$ permits, upgrading to a 3rd gen style track bar and bracket like this one is preferred.

http://www.solidsteel.biz/trackbars.htm

I love this piece and feel that it will outlive the truck, as its built so well...

 

The axle's gonna move right no matter which you're installing and you'll need to suck it back left

But hey, you buy and you fly....come on over and install the 3rd Gen for us!!

 

That's correct. I liked your method for moving the axle back.

As for the 3rd gen style track bar install I did on my '96 2500 4x4 (along with a full front end rebuild at the time), doing it once was more than enough for me

 

Nice shiny new drive shaft. What happened there?

 

Not to steal his thunder, however, if you're referring to the new front driveshaft, see his thread for the details here - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-carnage.html

 

I upgraded mine with an aftermarket Chinese one. Worst mistake. I had to modify it to fit. The good part is they refunded me $$ and I kept the trackbar. The bolt holes on the trackbar didn't fit and both ends are right handed threads. This took time for modifying it. The relocation bracket bolted up fine.
Go with what AtomicDog posted or something similar. Takes about an hour. Buy once cry once, which I didn't do. I also put a 3rd gen steering linkage, bolts right in on a 2000-2001 Gen 2 1500 4x4. I move the steering wheel and the wheels start turning. Tracks down the highway with minimum input. A night and day difference.

 

I didn't realize there were knockoffs. Me being me, I just wanna build the bracket for a stock 3rd Gen to bolt up, and the only thing that concerns me is getting the eye positioned exactly right so it doesn't shift the axle L or R. If I could even copy or improve upon a knockoff that's tempting

Basically what you're paying for with aftermarket products like Solid Steel is all the engineering and troubleshooting has been done for you, and indeed they deserve to get paid if you want their product. I just like building stuff....even if it's copying existing ideas

 

Ah. Just found it weird since driveshafts don't usually need replacement. Thanks.

 

These CV's do if you don't maintain them. Even if a u-joint doesn't break and frag the ears of a yoke the centering ball eventually goes dry....then needles vanish....then the ball becomes very unhappy....then the centering post is trashed. The post is integral to the d/s so at that point it's nearly even $ to cut off the end and weld on a new end with post vs just getting an entirely new d/s

While it was not the failure we most recently experienced, the moral is lube that centering ball! It's basically impossible (or at least impractical) to do on the truck so really once every year (or even 2 years) we should all remove our front driveshafts and use the special little grease gun attachment to service the CV.

Do NOT bother with knockoffs, the tip angle and design is critical here:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/