Trans keeps ruining fluid
#31
Does someone smarter than me know what stall I should get for torque converter? Also should I go big now so it’s ready for upgrade or wait until I’m upgrading everything?
currently I have 3.55 rear gear and 32” tires
but eventually the truck will have 38” tires and possibly 4.10 gears
the only one I can find that isn’t 2500 stall is a 1600-1900 stall and that seems too low for my truck, but 2500 seems too high considering the truck cruises at around 1700rpm
currently I have 3.55 rear gear and 32” tires
but eventually the truck will have 38” tires and possibly 4.10 gears
the only one I can find that isn’t 2500 stall is a 1600-1900 stall and that seems too low for my truck, but 2500 seems too high considering the truck cruises at around 1700rpm
#32
Depends on what your planned usage is for the truck. I'm running 4.10 gears in my truck with 33" tires. Since I use my truck for hauling and towing, I ordered my converter from Precision of New Hampton with a 1200 stall speed with a consideration for the towing. So far, it has been working very well for me.
so 1600-1900 doesn’t seem bad?
#33
I found a 5 clutch drum from a 48re that says it fits all of the 4 speeds from that time for $90~ does this seem reasonable? I also don’t know automatics that well, is there only one basket for the gears? There must be a separate one for reverse and OD right? That’s why it’s a separate housing?
#34
Price seems reasonable if it comes with the piston, too - https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/...h-direct-drum/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201765548984
Is a valve body rebuild worth it or are they usually fine with just a shift kit?
#35
this is the one I found, it looks like it has everything
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201765548984
Is a valve body rebuild worth it or are they usually fine with just a shift kit?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201765548984
Is a valve body rebuild worth it or are they usually fine with just a shift kit?
As for the drum, looks like a good deal. We used Reybestos GPZ clutches during our rebuild - more info can be gleaned on them here - https://www.raybestospowertrain.com/...-clutch-plates
#36
I'd opt for a lower stall (1200 - 1600) on the converter, since your use for the truck is for good torque and power in the lower RPM ranges, based on what you stated earlier.
#37
This. You want your truck to be truck-like, not hot rod-like. 16-1900 would be fine. That will allow the engine to get into its torque curve before stall.
#39
Probably. There are always those 'other' parts that you find you need, when you have it scattered across the bench.
There is some overlap between the Sonax, and Transgo shift improver kits. The one thing that you want to make sure you do though, is drill the little hole, so the torque converter will charge in Park. That also means you can check your fluid with the truck in park.
There is some overlap between the Sonax, and Transgo shift improver kits. The one thing that you want to make sure you do though, is drill the little hole, so the torque converter will charge in Park. That also means you can check your fluid with the truck in park.
#40
Probably. There are always those 'other' parts that you find you need, when you have it scattered across the bench.
There is some overlap between the Sonax, and Transgo shift improver kits. The one thing that you want to make sure you do though, is drill the little hole, so the torque converter will charge in Park. That also means you can check your fluid with the truck in park.
There is some overlap between the Sonax, and Transgo shift improver kits. The one thing that you want to make sure you do though, is drill the little hole, so the torque converter will charge in Park. That also means you can check your fluid with the truck in park.