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decisions, decisions...

Old May 9, 2022 | 03:17 PM
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This is a general technical question. As I read the different forum threads for answers to various issues, I ponder "how far should I go."

My 2001 1500 with 120K miles is a third vehicle, purchased two months ago. Obviously, this is way below average mileage for this age vehicle. It's not a daily driver but it is driven at least twice a week, long enough to get all the fluids fully warmed. It's definitely not going to go off-road. Might tow a 5x8 utility trailer with 1500# payload if it tows anything at all. Not likely to go more than 100 miles one-way from home. Won't be "rode hard and put up wet". That said....

I replaced the very porous power steering hoses within the first week of ownership, Two weeks ago I replaced the PS pump which was leaking around the reservoir. Saturday, as I stopped by former mechanic neighbor's house to say hi as I passed, he commented "I smell antifreeze". Sunday, I noticed a puddle underneath the truck and there is a coolant leak though I can't tell where it's coming from. Today I went to NAPA and bought new, not rebuilt, water pump, the metal inlet tube, new radiator and heater hoses, thermostat, pressure cap, etc.

I fully understand the "while you're at it..." mindset (I worked in manufacturing and had to fix my own machine or assist the machinists and/or electricians in doing repairs, so I get it), but at what point do you decide between "yes it's 20+ years old but only has 120K miles" versus "replace it regardless of the mileage". Right now, I'm specifically thinking of timing chain replacement that several forum members suggest doing "while you're at it". Does it need a chain replacement at 120K? And "while you're at it" and have the coolant drained, why not remove the intake manifold and take care of the plenum issue.

I know there are more repairs that will be needed down the road, and I'll tackle them as they arise, but where do you draw the line to justify doing the needed repair(s) to get back on the road or "while you're at it..."?

Thank you for your input.

Joe Truckster
 
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Old May 9, 2022 | 03:58 PM
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The stock chain is the morse-style, and it is notorious for stretching, even at less mileage than yours..... So, it's like six more bolts to get to the timing set when you are doing the water pump..... Changing the timing set on my truck (my old 96 with the 5.9) was one of THE best improvements I made that affected how it ran. MUCH smoother, better throttle response, and more power..... Well worth the money I spent on it. Just be careful when removing the timing cover, try not to rip the oil pan gasket. (I was able to pull the cover without dropping the oil pan, and was able to save the gasket.)
 
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Old May 9, 2022 | 04:44 PM
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I'm in the same position as yourself. My truck is a 'spare/third' vehicle and is only used for hauling/towing. I believe in performing the necessary repairs to keep the 25+ year old truck running along. I would go ahead and tackle the timing chain using a good double roller chain+gears (along with a timing chain tensioner, if desired - I like them and some folks don't, however, they help to keep the timing rock solid for a long time, as all timing chains stretch some with use) and intake plenum gasket (if needed, if it hasn't already been done). While in there, check to see how the oil looks down in the oil pan - if it looks murky/neglected, might want to consider dropping the oil pan and adding a high volume oil pump and a new pickup screen, along with the one piece oil pan gasket. I mention these items, as I had to swap a used 5.9 motor into my truck. The original motor was so rusty that it was a challenge to work on, so I decided to swap out the engine. Before I installed the used motor, I changed the water pump, timing chain/gears, timing chain tensioner, high volume oil pump, oil pickup tube and intake plenum gasket. By doing all of that work, it has left me with a motor that I can just turn the key on and drive.
 
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Old May 9, 2022 | 09:09 PM
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The timing set is a surprisingly small amount of additional work if the wp is off, and the double roller set is something like $23 at RA (plus shipping)

As for the plenum, meh...I'd only do it if you see clear evidence it's giving you fits
 
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Old May 10, 2022 | 08:44 PM
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Under "what did you do with your truck today," I started on the water pump replacement. Drained/flushed old brown once-upon-a-time coolant out, added fresh water, so it wouldn't make a mess of the carport floor, and moved truck into the carport to get started. A liberal dose of PB Blaster and ten minutes and the fan clutch came loose easily with a pipe wrench and a pin spanner. Looked like a past owner used a center punch on the clutch nut to get it loose, and tight again. I know the lower radiator hose had been replaced, I suspect the radiator may have been replaced, and I guess maybe the water pump too in the undocumented past. I'll check into the timing chain.

Son-in-law says he had changed the oil and filter, air filter, and brake pads, but couldn't say when. This time everything will be recorded with dates and mileage. Spreadsheets make it easy, computer remembers better than I do.
 
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Old May 10, 2022 | 11:43 PM
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You can knock the fan clutches loose with an air hammer chisel in a heartbeat. It scars the hex a bit but doesn't really matter
 
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Old May 11, 2022 | 02:03 AM
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I think I am reading your question a bit differently than others. "how far should I go?" in terms of how much money and time to invest into the truck as a whole? For me, any amount. I refuse to spend 50K+ on a newer truck that I in no way could work on. My truck is MY only vehicle ( I have my better halfs jeep if needed though) and like the OP, I do not skimp on getting the right parts, not the cheapest. We can fully rebuild a vehicle for around $20K and it will last longer with lower maintenance than the new ones. So yeah, if this was the gist of your question, keep doing what you are doing bud.
 
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Old May 11, 2022 | 08:42 AM
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do u have some photos to it ?
 

Last edited by gabbyRose; May 11, 2022 at 07:32 PM.
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Old May 11, 2022 | 03:53 PM
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90K on mine. Rebuilt the transmission at 86K, beefed it up a little bit inside. Upper/lower hoses, thermostat, all fluids, crank position sensor, and another glovebox. About $2000 into the truck, bought it for $5K 5 years ago. $7000 into the truck so far. $1400 a year.
 
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Old May 12, 2022 | 09:32 PM
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This is addressed more to Alienicon than the rest of you. Read my first posts under "2001 club cab purchase" for the sordid details. I offered S-I-L the price of a hitch and trailer for his SUV for the truck, so I got a good deal compared to KBB value. The wife is okay with spending some money on it, but doesn't get the "while you're at it" aspects -- "if it ain't broke don't fix it". She wants it to look good, I want it to be about as reliable as her '08 Civic with 75K miles. Including the upcoming dash pad replacement, I'm in $1500 so far. I don't mind spending money; I'm retired so "lifetime warranty" is probably about 15 years on my drivetrain.

I'm going to NAPA tomorrow to get a double-roller chain set. Mechanic Neighbor also recommended I change it. Looks a bit more involved than a small-block Chevy, don't remember '78 Buick Regal Turbo chain swap from 1984.

Anything else for now?

Joe Truckster
 
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