Crank no start fuel pump cut on first few days now it doesn't instrument panel flickered first few days with no communication to PCM. Now instrument panel is consistent after piddling with possible solutions PCM seems to be getting power but only sending out partial power like wired that goes to injectors is hot coming out of fuse box but not hot at the injectors feel like I've narrowed it down to it crank position sensor, ignition, or PCM but I don't have money to hit and miss any help appreciated I'm somewhat new to the electrical side of Automotive but I have done much research but just can't pinpoint the solution to this problem. Several weeks now my household is depending upon it. I was driving down Road made a small combustion type sound, shut off, then crank but no start. Dash lights flickered, gauges all dropped to zero, instrument panel went crazy to begin with until I started testing things then it became consistent as to how lights would come on check engine light and other light so I thought it may be a short. Checked all wiring, PCM reference , fuses first of course, was weird had voltage going to my spare fuse, good 5 volt reference at PCM the green and orange wire that goes to injectors is hot coming out of fuse box but is not hot at the injectors or the PCM I pulled the instrument panel and everything. Fuel pump is not cutting on but it was the first week or so no fuel pressure no communication with PCM

 

Do you have spark?

 

Injectors and coil will only have power for about 3 seconds at initial key on, and again while the PCM sees the engine turning. If you get the initial prime, but, no power while cranking, (coil or injectors) likely bad crank sensor.

 

no I don't believe I have any Spark fuel pump doesn't cut on however it did the first week it was down now battery has 12 volt but it's acting like it's dead I have voted to one of my side panel fuse receptor but when I stick the fuse in it it's not traveling through the fuse it's been different things going on at different times which is left me puzzled I just bought a crank sensor and an ignition switch about to go put them on any initial thoughts are greatly appreciated cuz I'm not sure that's what caused my no communication with the ECM

 

with a bad crank sensor would that cause no communication to the ECM or also could it cause to act like the battery is dead since I have voltage to my alternator and battery but it will barely turn over now also in my fuse box side panel I have voltage to the receptor but when I plug a fuse in and check the top of the fuse there is no voltage I've tried four or five brand new fuses still the same

 

Sensor can cause No bus..... Trouble is, pretty much anything on the 5 volt circuit can also cause it...... O2 sensors are notorious for it.

Sensor won't have any effect on cranking speed though. I think that is a separate problem.

If you have voltage with just a meter, but, not when there is a load on the circuit, that is likely a bad connection upstream of the fuse. It will pass enough voltage for the meter to read it, but, is incapable of running whatever the load is.

 

could you possibly give me a reference on how to check my PCM to see if something is wrong with it I'm getting the 5 volt reference being received and I'm receiving ground sent to it but I don't know what else to check with the multimeter to check what's getting sent out from the PCM location
I changed the crank sensor and ignition switch I now have better power cranking but still no spark and the fuel pump still isn't cutting on

 

Not really any good way to test the PCM..... If the fuel pump primes at initial key on, then the PCM is doing at least part of its job. Next question becomes, if you crank the engine, does the fuel pump run for a few seconds again? If not, the PCM likely isn't seeing the engine turning. (bad crank sensor, or wiring.)

I possible test for the No Bus problem, is just start unplugging sensors on the 5 volt bus, and see if the dash comes back to life, and if a scanner can talk to the PCM.....

 

fuel pump is not cutting on however it did during the first week it was down. Now it is not. I changed crank sensor and ignition switch to no resolve. A mechanic friend suggested a fuse box replacement because I have power going to my spare fuse location. Aside from that all fuses check out however the ASD relay was buzzing at the point of connection I replaced it and no more buzzing. Except I'm showing voltage at three points of the ASD relay connection and only at two points on all my other relays is this normal

 

Should only see power on two pins in the ASD socket..... Pin 30 is hot at all times, pin 85 *might* be as well, but, I think that one is only hot with ignition on. PCM controls the ground side of the control circuit.

Which three wires are you seeing power on, and how are you testing?