Water pump / timing cover torque specs
#1
Water pump / timing cover torque specs
Hey guys , does anyone know where I can find torque specs for the water pump and timing cover for a 360? I had to do the water pump couple months ago so I changed that , the harmonic balancer, crank seal and the timing cover gasket. Everything was fine until it's starting getting cold here with sub zero climates. Now I'm noticing there is a trickle coming down the side of the timing cover and also a small pool of coolant around the thermostat housing area once in awhile. Im Hoping I can tighten all these bolt a little more or am I screwed and have to do it all over again? On a side note I re used the u shaped oil pan gasket that mates with the timing cover cause it looked fine. Now I'm getting oil seeping from there so that's great.
#2
#4
I just did this job on a 2000 and honestly I get all the torque specs out of a Haynes manual I already have in the shop. My data sucks for big downloads so I'm not cool enough to have downloaded the FSM
Also in my paranoia I typically run a THIN bead of 90 minute Right Stuff (I'm simply too cheap to pay for the 15 minute cheese whiz) around the two water passages and at the oil pan gasket. You're not supposed to need to do this, but I do. So there.
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#7
Are you sure the leak from the t-stat housing isn't running down the timing cover?
I just did this job on a 2000 and honestly I get all the torque specs out of a Haynes manual I already have in the shop. My data sucks for big downloads so I'm not cool enough to have downloaded the FSM
Also in my paranoia I typically run a THIN bead of 90 minute Right Stuff (I'm simply too cheap to pay for the 15 minute cheese whiz) around the two water passages and at the oil pan gasket. You're not supposed to need to do this, but I do. So there.
I just did this job on a 2000 and honestly I get all the torque specs out of a Haynes manual I already have in the shop. My data sucks for big downloads so I'm not cool enough to have downloaded the FSM
Also in my paranoia I typically run a THIN bead of 90 minute Right Stuff (I'm simply too cheap to pay for the 15 minute cheese whiz) around the two water passages and at the oil pan gasket. You're not supposed to need to do this, but I do. So there.
That's what I thought at first. Once I get a warm day I'm gonna bring the truck inside and get the alternator out the way and check the t stat housing, and possibly a crack on the heater core hose beside it aswell. I actually did the thermostat recently to but it didn't leak then it's torqued to spec would hate to snap those bolts !! And yea man I'm Paranoid to I used the the right stuff gasket did a film of it then gasket then a bit more. As far as the oil pan gasket that meets the cover I'm deff screwed there maybe it be easier to drop the oil pan and replace it that way
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#8
Are you talking the heater core hose that is beside the thermostat? If so then that was my original thought I've never changed that hose maybe there is a hairline crack after I removed it doing the water pump
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#10
The heater hose clamps are good things to check and possibly tighten as well, however, the bypass hose comes off the front of the intake and goes down into the water pump, just below the thermostat housing.