When you say crack open the fronts. Would you mean by maybe leaving then crack a little to get that valve to move to send fluid to the rear, the tighten then back down and do a full rear to front bleed? I understand your point of them being sensitive to trigger fluid movement. Sorry for what may be dumb questions but I have never dealt with this type of issue before. Just trying to do it the correct way.

Right now It's been a rough weekend. My Ford truck ( back up) had a bracket pulley blow apart on the way home from work last night. It was a replacement deal done at a shop since smog pumps can't be found anymore so along with Dodge being down I'm trying to get a belt to bypass the whole thing since I don't know what to get to replace that part/pulley they used. The guy seemed more interested in getting home so he didn't want to look up the paperwork to find what part they used. I have a belt number to just bypass the whole deal so I wont have to find that part so I will just drive the Dodge easy to get it. I prefer to have time and run through the Dodge completely and fix it right. It's my main driver.

 

Yeah, just try and bleed the fronts a bit. Might try doing the two person method.... Have someone pump up the brakes for ya, hold the pressure, then you crack open the bleeder. Close it again when the pedal hits the floor. Do that a couple times, then try bleeding at the rear.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have anyone so it will be a one man job. I fixed the Ford though and found a smog pump bypass belt so it's up and running good. Now to get back to the Dodge. I did get a one man kit that has the reverse bleed. Basically drain out master cylinder with it then do each wheel pumping fluid back through the system pushing the air up and out through the master. I will post a link. I got it from NAPA

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER2...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

 

if you don't have help to bleed the brakes then you could always make one of these. i have used this setup in the past and had good success. keep gently pressing the brake pedal till you stop seeing air come out.

 

I've drafted one of the neighborhood kids in a pinch. One neighbors daughter actually LIKED working on cars, so, when she saw me out there, she would come over to help.

 

but setups like in the video also help cut down on mess and fluid everywhere and makes the job go quicker even if you had help but work just as good without help.

 

I would but after 5 minutes with him and you will pull your hair our and he doesn't listen to well. lol

 

Yeah, I have done that in the past. This reverse deal is suppose to be easier so giving it a try.

 

Well this is where I am at. Went to break open front calibers and can't get either bleeder nut to break loose and they are way too close to either rounding out or breaking off. ( Been through that). Rather then continue to fight this issue, I'm just going to replace both of them. Figured I would have to replace if either one was to break anyway. So now I am shopping for new one's. Figure if I order now, I should get them in enough time to do this since I will have 4 day's off. Module will be in Monday. I will start off fresh with replacing pretty much most things other then the lines themselves but they are good. If I can't get the valve to reset, it will too be replaced but like Hey said. I will see if doing the fronts will fix that issue. I will update once I get things done. Thanks for the help Gentlemen,

 

Half ton truck? If so, consider upgrading the front calipers to the light duty 3/4 ton fellers, They have a larger piston, so, more braking for the same pedal effort. They are a direct bolt-in swap. If you are going to replace them anyway, might just as well replace them with something better, right?