I have never upgraded in terms of 3/4. Is that looking for the same year but 2500? I found NAPA has mine for a decent price that I could get them Monday so I could install the one my day off (Starting Thursday). I soaked booth with some mouse milk and even with vice grips. they wouldn't move. My thoughts at first was just replaced the bleeder screw but that wasn't going to happen. Kind of bummed out since I wanted to try my new tool. lol.I agree with swapping for something better though.

 

When removing/installing bleeder screws, it's best to have some good flare nut wrenches handy to keep the bleeder screws from rounding. Here's an example, if you don't already have them - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SA...W6PC/203541511

Also, using some heat (Mapp gas or propane torch) on them might help to free them up.

 

Don't know if they will show them for 97 or newer..... maybe, but, they used the same calipers right up until 2000. I think. Whenever they went to the dual piston calipers... if you already have the dual piston, then, that's as good as it gets.

Try tapping on the bleeder valves with a hammer. Don't deform them too badly, but, it helps the lubricant penetrate deeper into the threads, and might allow you to crack 'em loose.

 

I have a set of those wrenches. I soaked the crap out of them. I don't have a torch handy at this time. Did try to tap them but just gave up. I don't remember the last time either of the fronts was replaced? It's not really the costly to just replace both and move forward. I figure with all this work. I will completely flush all the lines with new fluid. The way the tool I bought works is by taking new fluid from the bottle that will push any air trapped back up through the brake reservoir. I use it to drain what in there to make room for the fluid coming from the bottle. So by the time I finish bleeding all brakes. There shouldn't be any old fluid.

 

First thing. Happy Thanksgiving Gents. Ok, now back to subject. I changed out module. Both front calipers are new now. Did fronts first just to check how the new tool worked and made sure some fluid was in there as well heard them bleed out air through master cylinder. Went to back and just didn't seem right so I did both anyway. Anyway long story short. I just had the neighbor boy help me do the old fashion rear to front bleed and it seems to be working so far. Lights did go out after allowing it to run a little. No more dash light and brakes seem a lot better. I did find one proportional valve did bleed so fluid and now I do have fluid to the rear. Going to do some testing in the morning while getting some gas and returning old calipers. Will update again. Thanks for the help guys.

 

i figure i would point this out but you should anti seize the crap out of the new bleeder screws on the new calipers. any time i replace wheel cylinders or calipers it is something i do and it usually pays off in the future if i ever need to bleed them again.

 

This is an EXCELLENT idea. I do this as well, though, I tend to wrap them in teflon tape, it not only prevents them from rusting together, it also seals the valve threads, so the fluid comes out where it is supposed to, not around the threads.

 

Well since I am going to be replacing the rear drums today hopefully. They are worn out anyway. I may not hurt to pull them and wrap them as you did. It seems this truck is trying to drive me crazy. lol. Let it sat while trying to do the scan tool yesterday.Cleared any codes that were there and brake and ABS light came back on. Ran test no codes were found. Started it to see how it acted and was good but noticed no lights on dash even though I started it several times. This morning started it up no lights so I proceeded to run and get gas to go to auto parts store( NAPA). Brakes seemed to be on but about 5 minutes in ABS and brake light comes on. If I am correct. I think my braking was more to the fronts since it acted about the same before. Stopped by auto store used deposit on calipers and got new rear drums which will be in about and hour or so. I got home and ran scanner tool. No codes but at some point my ABS and Brake light went back off while it was sitting there running. I checked the fluid and the level was full so it's not a leak to blame. I did notice to proportional valves and the one right in front of the module was fine but I did press down on the one in front of it that has the rubber seal on the top and bled it I believe. I wonder if that isn't suppose to be up towards the top? The other one isn't when you remove that rubber cap. It's about half way in.I could get some pictures if that would help visual of what I'm trying to explain.

This is what's all been replaced. Module, Everything in the rear ( New drums coming), New Calipers front with new pads. All the brakes were due so this wasn't a throw everything at it other then the module but codes I had showed it needed to be replaced. I don't remember them off hand. If one or both valves are failing. That's going to be a issue to find since I believe they don't sell them anymore. That would have either be a salvage yard find or donor truck with no promises.

 

If your lites still come on occasionally, probably still a bit of air in the system, or the rears need adjusted some more. I usually hit 'em all again after driving for a bit anyway.

 

I was thinking the same thing but wasn't sure. The reverse bleeding works great on the front calipers but the rears are smaller and it just doesn't seem to work. If weather permits. I will be putting on the new drums tomorrow. That will pick up less travel for the rear brakes. My Chilton manual is very vague on bleeding ABS valves. I know the one with the access/rubber cap.I did push it down and bleed some air from it till nothing but fluid was coming out. After posting what was going on. I ran it up to NAPA to get my parts ( About maybe 15 blocks ) and back and lights didn't come on but brakes still didn't feel right but that could be the rears drums are worn out so once changed. I will be looking for some improvements. I don't remember if the mechanic adjusted the brakes either since there was no fluid going back at that time. I will update once everything is changed and bleed. Hopefully this will cure this.... Thanks