If you have a lot of pedal travel before the brakes really start doing anything, that's the rear brake adjustment. Gotta do that manually after changing shoes.... I like to set 'em so they are just barely rubbing the drums. Gives you a nice firm pedal, with very little travel before things start happening. If its spongy, that's air in the lines. Won't hurt to bleed 'em all again, once you have the new drums on, and adjusted up nice.

 

Please be sure to bleed the brakes, starting with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder (passenger side rear), then driver's side rear, passenger side front and lastly driver's side front.

 

I really don't have any travel. If i was to say it's more towards a spongy peddle with what feels like not a normal braking distance. Almost like you have to really apply them to stop at a faster rate.

 

Yeah. I have always did RR, LR ,RF then LF. I was taught that years ago in shop. My neighbor kid is maybe 3rd grade so he may not have had enough strength on pushing the peddle. He did help though.

 

I've found that a well trained helper is a must to get the brakes bled properly. One that doesn't "bounce" the pedal while pumping the brakes and also doesn't let off the brake pedal when I ask them to 'push and hold the pedal down and let me know when the pedal goes to the floor' as I open the bleeder screw to bleed a given line.

I usually grab either my wife or neighborhood friend, as they both know the brake bleeding process well.

 

I meant to ask if you guys might about some codes. I have searched them both but there really isn't a clear answer. There was 3 but down to 2.

1) 47 Shorted Solenoid or Open Ecu Output- LF
2) 65 Open Power Relay Contacts
This was before I even got the ABS and brake light I have been speaking of in this thread. I googled them not getting a real clear answer but I believe one said the module was bad so I have replaced it but that really hasn't solved that issue. Relay is used but I don't remember seeing a relay for the ABS. I am going to look again. Has anyone dealt with this same issue? Thanks

 

Hhhmmm.... What I am finding:

47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

65 Power steering switch failure

Not sure you even HAVE a power steering switch though..... if you do, it would be on the high pressure line somewhere. (don't recall ever seeing one.....)

 

Every time I have searched. I seem to get different answers. Battery is maybe 6 months old and the last time I check the charging system it was really good. As to the power steering switch. I don't know? Going to finish brakes today and see about solving this after.

 

It seems to be throwing codes then not. Meaning I got another code today about rear senor which I replaced a few months ago when my speedo wasn't working. I am going to pull the plug and check and clean it just in case. I took some picture of the valves I been speaking of but it's not a suitable file. I have found one on eBay that is OE and supposed to be new for $170.00. I will post a picture of it. My thinking is the valve is shorting out which is why I am getting those codes? As for the rear. That just came up today. I was thinking about taking this one out and seeing if there is way to maybe clear it since my thinking is the two on top seem to be a relay. What do you think?

 

That valve is readily available locally at pick and pay salvage yards on a variety of vehicles - Durango, Ram, Dakota, etc. I picked up a couple of used valves and plan to replace the one on my truck one of these days since the two metal solenoid covers appear to be rusting out. Might want to check your wiring closely to ensure nothing there is bare/shorting. I'm thinking that those valves are pretty tough, as we haven't heard about them failing, unlike Takarta airbags...