Well I'm not over issue yet as I thought. After it sat for few hours and cooled down. I had to make a quick run to the store. Well it started with the slip but did go into gear. Did this a couple of times. After it seems to warm up some it does shift without slipping but I notice when I slow down I am hearing a whistling sound that isn't real loud. When driving I don't hear it but that doesn't mean it goes away. I mostly hear it when I apply the breaks slowing down. I am going to try and google it but it looks like I may have to take it by the transmission guy that is close to me. I know they don't like to hear people rebuilding their own stuff. I will update.

 

I took it to a local transmission guy down the by me. I know most don't like to hear that I rebuilt it. I explained that it slips when you first take off but after a few minutes , it shifts fine. I said it made a whistling sound when I slowed down. Other then those two things it does fine.I explained I seems to be a pressure not building up when you first start it up and drive because after a few minutes, it doesn't slip. I told him I had no way to test that. They also have access to check for codes in the transmission. I couldn't get the two sensors locally (Good ones) and they were changed maybe 6 months ago so I took a chance with them. Hopefully the fix will be cheap in cost compared to rebuild cost. He knows I rebuilt everything and it has a new(rebuilt)converter. Crossing finger here.

 

I'm still waiting to hear back from the transmission shop. They stay pretty busy with all the work they have.He is one of the very few who doesn't try to over charge a person. I can't help to be stressed until I know what's going on. The odd slippage could be a simple adjustment or bad sensor but the weird whistling sound when I slow down concerns me since nobody seems to understand why or the cause. Sorry guys. I just a bag of nerves here not knowing whats going on. Just needed to vent. Thanks

 

Well it seems I'm on my own here. He is super busy and did a quick test drive and it seemed to shift without slipping. So nothing came from it so I am going to try in the morning before leaving to work to put it in neutral for maybe a minute to allow fluid movement to see if maybe this helps with first cold start odd slipping. He did say to adjust the front band but told me 1 1/2 turns not 2 7/8 as both the video and book said. It still has the odd wind/whistle sound but doesn't seem to be affecting anything. Once pressure levels out ( After a couple of minutes) it shifts fine and rpms are good. I am dealing with some light misfire but I am sure that is due to the o2 sensors are acting up. I have the upstream I picked that up today at NAPA (Denso) but still waiting for the downstream to come in. I figure I will replace both at the same time. I changed the upstream before transmission removal but damaged it during install so I had to put the old one back in for now till I can change both. If that makes any sense?

I figure I will run it the rest of this week and see how it acts after o2 new sensors are installed. The only 02 downstream sensor I can get now is a Walker brand and they only come with a 6 month warranty. The Denso is coming from Miami so it takes two days for NAPA to get it here.

This a lot of reading and I apologize for it. I may try doing some micro band adjustments on the front band and see if maybe the improves the cold start slippage issue. Maybe snugging it up some can cure that? As for the weird sound. Well all I can do see if I can find the source? It wasn't there before this rebuild. Its frustrating not knowing.

 

It seems nobody has a clue to this mystery whistle sound I am dealing with? I even messaged the seller at eBay ( It a company that rebuild converters) about what I was hearing if maybe this was something they have dealt with before? I received a message telling a replacement will be sent out but didn't give me any information to explain the reason why they are sending new one. I explained it stops when I am sitting still at the light and it doesn't do it in park or neutral.
I have a new sensors coming in this weekend since I took a chance using old ones being I was loosing work hours over this. I was reading my transmission book to double check the band adjustments so while the pan is dropped, I am going to check them again. I'm still waiting for my downstream sensor to come in so I can see if they are affecting anything? Hopefully by this weekend things improve. If not, I think I am going to sit up and appointment with AAMCO since the guy down the road doesn't have time. All I can do is see what they say. I am not going to mention it's been rebuilt. I will update if anyone is still interested at this point.

 

A whirring or whistle noise? A whistle is a vacuum leak, a whirring is the transmission at this point. The downstream o2 sensor is there to see if the catalytic converter is operating correctly. Engine management doesn't include this o2 sensor and will only set a code for the cat not working properly. Mine whirred when not fully engaged in gear, had to bump the shifter a little bit. It doesn't do it anymore on mine.

 

I would say a whirling sound. I will try the shifter bump and see if it does anything, It's hard to even mimic. I do know it's sometimes off and on. Would applying the brake have anything to do with it stopping? The o2 sensors were acting up before transmission was pulled. I replaced the front one first found out downstream was bad also. Damaged the upstream during install so I did get it but now waiting for the downstream to come in. Hopefully have those replaced by this weekend.
At least you have a idea of what I am trying to solve. The shifter it's self was tight. Now as to the column needs to be adjusted. It has play that wasn't there before.
Let me ask you this. The book and the video say's 2 7/8 for front band adjustment but the trans guys said 1 1/2 turns. How did do yours? Thanks

My shifting has been decent but I am going to go back since pan will be off again. I will be going through to do a torque adjustment since I misread the N-M thinking is was 72. The book say's 8N-m. I had to go by what the video said that didn't give numbers on band adjustments but rather tight lightly then make turns. I figure now that I can do correct numbers, then I will know they should be good after this round. I still need to tweak the TV cable since kit down still isn't correct.
Other then that. No leaks and she seems to be doing good. Just have to get the on and off misfire/ light rough idling fixed.

 

I turned mine out 2 turns after the 8 N-m (Newton-meters) or 72 in.lb. torque. Do you have the spring on the kick down cable at the transmission? If it's hard shifting into gears you might have binding linkage

 

I wasn't looking at the book when I was doing the build. If I was, I would have done the correct adjustment while it was out. I was using the video to walk me through it. Shift is very smooth just seems a little off. I do have the spring in place. I made sure I bagged and tag everything when taking it apart with as much pictures as I could. I have been doing a start up then put it neutral to give the fluid time to move. I figured it would need some adjustment and tinkering to dial it in. The whirling/whistle was concerning to me more then anything. I didn't have a clue on how to correct that. I did as you did and bumped the leveler but it still is there. Other then that. It seems to be doing good and quiet otherwise. I will be doing band adjustment for front tomorrow. I can't do the rear band till the pressure sensors come in. I want to double check the pan anyways. Thankfully, I bought the new pan with the drain plug. I have paint strainers handy so I can reuse the fluid.
o2 sensors should be completed by this weekend. I believe they making the engine idle rough(lightly). I wont get the pressure sensors in till this week.
Thank you for getting back with me. You seem to have a idea of what I am dealing with.

 

A transmission pan with a drain plug comes in real handy after a rebuild. Just ask me how I know...