If they are fuel soaked, they are getting too much fuel. What brand/type of plugs? How did the even plugs look?

 

#1 looks good , #3 looks like maybe carbon build up and that was cylinder with highest compression #130 fuel soaked, #5 normal but fuel soaked, #7 normal with fuel odor but not as bad, running autolite 3924's for now, sent wife a while back to get 3923's and knucklehead parts counter kid gave her the 24's , she dealt bad for not checking at counter but I was desperate to get truck back to work so I just ran them.

 

Slightly hotter plug, should still work just fine. Are the even plugs lookin' ok? Or are some of them fuel soaked as well?

 

2, 4,6 all look normal of course #8 is a lil oily but has the hughes plenum kit on it and using Mopar brand pcc valve seemed to help. This thing drinks oil like a sailor likes his rum lol. Compression on even bank was all #120

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Gettin' a bit low there. But, with a high mileage engine, that is not unexpected. Still, should be enough for it to run decent. Might not Hurt to pull the fuel rail, and see if there is junk built up on the injectors on the cylinders that are being uncooperative.

 

Since they are so easy to do was thinking about pulling off odd bank injectors and doing the brake clean flush with a battery that I've seen a few videos about

 

I might flush 'em with fresh gas. I don't know what brake cleaner would do to the insulation on the windings...... Might be fine, might not.

 

Since the weather finally got nice I figured I'd check injectors for any restrictions, starting with odd bank since that's where the 3 codes were. Rigged up a nozzles and used brake clean and a battery. All 4 flowed the same. Went to even bank where I know injectors are good w same test, flowed just like the ones in odd bank, and all injector nozzles were cleaned when I took them out. Cleaned out fuel rail put everything back together while swapping the injectors to opposite sides to see if code would move . Runs just as rough and sounds like there's gonna be a rod in driveway any minute from the knock. It was knocking a tiny bit when I took it on faithful road test at it shut down. Idk maybe a cylinder has dead miss and dumping fuel in with no combustion to burn the fuel, still has massive fuel order when shut off. I did the math and cap, rotor and wires are about 500 miles old, just for grins guess I'll try 3923's tomorrow and see if anything changes. Carries about 40 lbs of oil psi at idle. And since I fixed compression guage leak now showing 130 all across the odd bank. If plugs don't help anyone think I should drop the pan? Or does anyone think changing coil may remedy anything? I'm not gonna waste a lotta time and money just throwing parts at it.

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You only have a couple cylinders being problematic, so, likely not the coil. One member, many years back..... had an unstable idle, and it turned out to be weak signal from the crank sensor was the culprit, and it never set a code. Of course, I have also had "new" distributor caps fail on me in a week.... (I stopped buying parts from that store....) Might try a cylinder balance test.... let the engine idle, unplug IAC, then disable one cylinder at a time, and see if you get an RPM drop. If you don't, that cylinder isn't firing.... but, you already know you have cylinders not firing........ Question becomes: WHY????

 

I thought about that test just a lil nervous about letting it run a bit, sounds like a hammer is bouncing around in the oil pan, also forgot to mention before this mess started, checked oil was exactly full, truck ran for about 5 miles and sat for few days and was a quart low. Both times checked oil with engine cold and as I mentioned it has the Hughes plenum kit on it. Thanks for response