Hi all, I have a thread running already but figured I needed to start a new one since different subject. I have a 97 Ram 1500 with 5.2 and NV 3500 manual transmission. I may (hopefully not) be looking at internal damage in engine. I have a line on another if it comes to it, a 5.2 with 90k miles but it's out of an automatic. My question is would I possibly have to do anything with my ecm so it recognizes it's no longer an automatic ? I compared a few part numbers on rock and pretty much the only difference I saw was ecm part number from same vendor. I've noticed a lot of parts unless I'm wrong have a cut off date between 96 and 97 . Any opinions would be great thanks.

 

The motors should be the same. Be sure to check that the crankshaft is drilled to accept a pilot bearing at the rear of the motor, as the other one should be. Swapping the intake from the old motor would likely take care of any other possible differences.

 

Dang I totally spaced off the crankshaft I really appreciate that, and would be re using my kegger, modified it and am pretty happy, ugh accept when it's time to do cap and rotor lol. So I should to be able to use my ecm the way it sits now?

 

PCM should not have to change just because of a like for like motor swap.

 

If anybody has had a 318 magnum at a machine shop to prep for rebuild, bore block if needed, check out rest of block, cam bearings, freeze plugs, if bored new pistons, valve job assuming no crazy cracks, all stock stuff, do you remember approximately what you paid? I live in very small town and there's a guy about 30 min away that has rave reviews but it's 1 man older guy that I can never get to answer the phone lol. Just curious ball park on machine shop end , assemble myself. Thanks for any input , I know it's a broad question.

 

Yes, that's a very broad question. The best way to keep machine shop costs down is to do as much of the work yourself, in addition to purchasing the necessary parts for your rebuild. For example, if you're going to assemble the motor yourself, you should also be able to install your own freeze plugs once the block comes back from the machine shop. I typically install deep brass cup freeze plus. Block freeze plug size is 1-5/8" and the heads take 1-1/4". You can also install your own cam bearings, if you can source/rent the cam bearing install tool from a friend. All of these would be installed once the block comes back from the machine shop after cleaning and their machine shop work has completed.

To be safe, I'd plan on purchasing a set of heads from Odessa, as the stock heads are known to crack.

As for pistons/rings, take your block to the machine shop to have it measured. Once measured, they can tell you if it will need to be bored and if so, what size it should end up as. They should also measure the crank to determine if it will need to be turned. Once you have that information, you can purchase the appropriately sized pistons, rings and main/rod bearings.

Hope this helps...

 

Hi y'all, just wanted an opinion. I know my motor has to come out but still recovering from 2 surgeries in 1 month so I'm on house arrest as far as alot of physical activity lol. So right now pulling engine myself is off the table for a few months. I found a guy that would pull motor, tear down, check all tolerances , replace crank, bearings, pistons etc. for $4800, I drop it off, pick it up and drive home. My question is when I asked him if he had software to set fuel sync when engine is back in he said you don't need to, the ecm does that from sensors . I was always told once it runs good enough to drive, it has to go to a shop w the software do tweak it. And that was the scenario when I had it apart after I bought it, luckily guy was a Mopar guy just up the street from house. Am I wrong in not thinking he is wrong about the ecm doing the sync on its own? Wondering if he thinks I was asking about setting the timing, but I was very specific with my question. Opinions? Thanks

 

You can use the 'distributor R&R' procedure to get fuel sync close, and it may even run decent... but, to properly set it, you do indeed need a fairly high zoot scanner. Tolerance on fuel sync is only plus or minus 7 degrees.... you would have to be really lucky to get it that close just dropping it in, and playing it by ear.

Also, have you considered just doing a long block? That would be a quicker turnaround.....

 

I have thought about the long block route but leery of assembly line engines and dealing with b.s. if needing a warranty claim. I've read numerous horror stories from people needing warranty replacement from multiple engine vendors and seems like stories pretty much the same even if installed by approved shop. One guy took his truck to shop engine vendor recommended to find it needs new engine due to poor quality control. Truck has been at shop for 3 months and still no engine sent. Plus I'm still dealing with the physical limitations from surgeries with the labor, I would be by myself. Just moved to small town and don't know anybody .
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Yeah, I have had some issues with engine vendors in the past as well. And I WAS the installer. They come up with every excuse under the sun to NOT cover something.... even rod knock on the first start..... they have a bunch of hoop jumping they want ya to do, and I just flat out told 'em, NONE of that is going to fix a rod knock. SEND ME ANOTHER ENGINE, or the next call you get will be from our lawyer. That usually works pretty good. Trouble is, you HAVE to have it installed by a shop for them to cover labor...... some demand a shop install to warranty even the engine itself. Gotta read those carefully.

That said, if they guy doing the rebuild is actually a shop, he should be willing to do R&R for ya as well.... Would it be less expensive? Maybe, maybe not...