Hi all,Currently own half a dozen of these trucks. I have used these forums for information for years, but I am just starting to actually post here... sorry for the long post, just trying to include all info.

I am VERY familiar with the common front end issues and I have installed and tested just about every known remedy for these issues over the years, usually with great results. That being said, on this particular truck, I am stumped.

The truck is my 99 1500 5.2 4x4 QC short bed, lifted 5.5" on 35x12.5x15 BFG KM3s. (Best tires I've ever put on this truck) The truck has always had sub-par steering but nothing too bad. I decided to rebuild the entire front end.

New parts below:
-98/99 HD T style steering
-Maxx-link sway bar links with bushings (stock height)
-DT Pro Fab steering brace/sway bar drop bracket with bearing
-DT Pro Fab adjustable track bar and drop bracket (heim/poly ends)
-Sway bar bushings and mounting clamps
-Spicer OEM ball joints top & bottom
-Spicer HD u-joints
-Calipers/Rotors/Pads/Hoses
-Timkin hubs (non abs)
-Bluetop 15:1 Steering Box

All new parts were torqued to FSM specs. Axle, suspension parts and frame sections were blasted and painted prior. The only parts I reused were the drop (flip only) pitman arm and the steering column, plus most of the hardware. The column felt tight. Tires are fairly new and worn evenly. I aligned the truck with plate steel bolted to the hubs and tape measures. Alignment looks close to perfect after readjusting a few times. wheel is straight and the truck drives straight as can be until a bump.

Now I have a bunch of odd issues I never had before. The main ones are-
-Truck steers hard left when braking.
-Vibration/ hopping at highway speeds on curves
-General steering looseness / center dead spot (STILL)

The only things I could think of is installing those delrin pucks on the tie rod to stop tie rod roll, seems that people recommend these for the T style setup. And I am not currently running a stabilizer, as the old tie rod clamp did not fit the new 99 HD setup but I plan to have one soon. I suspect my steering pump may need an update. I also thought when replacing ujoints, one of my axle stub ears MIGHT be slightly bent? but the joints installed easily, by hand/c clamp so it couldn't be that bent...

If I missed something or anyone has any other ideas, please let me know! Thanks

 

From what i found they only offer re manufactured units. The problem with all of them are they re use the steering gears. The center position is where most of the wear is so they only can adjust it to where it is not worn. So the center position is worn witch is where your slop is coming from. You can test this by putting the key in the ignition and unlocking the steering, Then get under the truck and turn the input shaft to the steering gear back and forth. You will see the movent. If by some chance this is not the cause you probably will be able to locate the issue.

https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dc...-151_p_64.html

 

Tie rod roll is another common problem with the T style steering. You turn the steering wheel, and the link from box to tie rods just rolls the tie rods before actually influencing your direction of travel. Give ya a nice dead spot in the steering.

 

Thanks for the response, however, I've spent quite a bit of time under there watching/feeling already, that's what led to replacing everything. I will say I can definitely see some tie rod roll on the new T style, but I can also verify it is NOT the steering box. I checked it on the bench before install, and this box was actually installed on another truck prior to this one for about 200 miles, and drove perfectly!

I am aware these boxes are only rebuilds, as are almost any company that sells these boxes, and this truck doesn't justify the cost of the 6 bolt PSC setup. I have used borgeson and redhead boxes in the past and bluetop seems to be the most consistent among the options I have tried.

 

I can actually see this happening now that I'm looking for it...I think I will try the delrin pucks on the tie rods, it seems to me that many people have good luck with them reducing the rod roll. I'll get a couple ordered and update here when I have results. Thanks

 

With 5.5" of lift and 35" tires I hope you're not trying to align to factory specs. Back in my 4 wheeling days my TJ had a similar setup in terms of lift and tire size and it needed much less caster angle and minimal toe in. Also wheel offset can aggravate the issues if the center of the contact patch is way farther out than stock.

 

Here are my thoughts. I see some of these are already answered.
1. What brand T steering did you get? I had terrible dead play from the above mentioned rollover on the bad brands. Both ends of the tie rod should have the puck instead of boot. I had Moog the first time and it had bad roll. Now I have AC Delco as they still make it with the hard pucks. I know you mentioned putting them in just not sure if both ends or what brand.

2. The play could also be in the steering gear. USUALLY in my experience that's where it is, even if there's a loose joint somewhere. But if you're convinced it's tight, then okay.

3.The turning when braking is always a sticking or bad caliper.

4. The wobble or hopping is shocks, tires and/or ujoints. Wrong psi or bad treadwear can cause terrible issues. You probably are now feeling it because everything else is new and tight.

Where did you put the castor in your alignment? Toe dead zero?
And finally, what lift? Long arms should really be on anything over 3" tall.
Sorry for the headache. I know how you feel. Most of us still here do. Hope we can help figure it out because I've certainly pulled hair out from my steering woes over the years.

 

Oh, and if your stub shaft is slightly bent you'd feel it all the time driving. A constant vibe.

 

I am not going by factory specs but a combination of recommendations I've relied on for my other trucks and usually gives me a near perfect alignment. I do the alignments myself and never have much of an issue other than having to do it a few times to get it "honed in"...

I have another truck, a 95 1500 on 2500 axles with 9" in suspension and 3" body lift on 37.5x12.5x20s..

Its a bit rumbly but rides very straight and barely wanders on a STOCK steering box, with 315,000 miles and not even a steering brace. Also aligned by hand. No joke. Now I know sometimes we just get lucky but I used the same "rough" alignment every time and it usually does great for me, that's why I suspect something may be abnormal here.

 

I've been reading around in this forum for years and I've probably learned more about these trucks from your posts than my FSM. lol. Thanks. Now to answer your questions;

1. It's a mix of AC Delco sleeves and Moog rods because its what i could find at the time. Unfortunately I learned about the ones with the pucks AFTER ordering. I have found a company that makes the pucks, called "The Cure" and other than being absurdly expensive for basically a washer, it seems like an easy thing to test out. I have a 3d printer + Nylon, I wonder...

2. I know a lot of times these boxes can be hit or miss so I'm not CONVINCED, but I've dealt with plenty of bad boxes and this one doesn't SEEM bad, to me anyway..

3. The brake components are all new and were properly flushed and bled, so I guess I will have to pull them back apart and start looking for problems. I know I've bought a funny caliper from the parts store before...

4. Ujoints are brand new. Tires are fairly new and worn evenly. They actually improved the ride a ton when I bought them, but I'll admit I'm lazy when it comes to checking pressure so I may be due for a chalk test.

The lift is an old skyjacker 5.5" with lift springs, not spacers. Hydro 7000 shocks. It has the drop brackets for everything up front to keep the steering geometry close to stock. As recently as a year ago, this truck drove very well with the same lift, track bar and tires before all the new parts. Just started getting loose recently, which is what led to all this work.

caster was left where it was already, as I said, it used to ride very well with the same lift/tires, so I didn't think it was needed. Toe was set dead straight, but that seemed to make the bouncing around curves slightly worse, so I readjusted just a HAIR out and it almost completely went away.

So now you've got me thinking, I'm looking at replacing my shocks because they are a bit bouncy lately anyway and I'm definitely going to try the pucks on the tie rods.

Thanks for all the info!