How hard is it to do the rear main seal ? So what you’re saying is I should replace all of that since i have the pan dropped ? I’ll have to look at my invoice but my pump might have been replaced when I had the end gone rebuilt . Not sure how much mileage those pumps take but I’m religious on oil changes . Rebuilt motor only has less then 100 000 kms on it .

 

Did they change the rear main as well? (it's the same main cap....) Mine was pushing 180,000 miles, was leaking, and I was in there anyway for the pump/etc. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

im assuming they did the rear main seal if they had the crank shaft out to rebuild the engine . Aren’t they a one time use any way ? Either way if my maths serves me right you had 200 000 km more then what’s on my rebuild engine right now lol
so I’m hoping everything is ok in there and it just a blown gasket

 

Make sure the oil pan rails are FLAT. And don't over-torque the bolts. (common mistake) as for the rest, I'd just leave it in place.

 

as in don’t touch anything in there ? Haha
have any tips for keeping the gasket in place while bringing the pan up ?

 

I’ll have to track down the torque specs . Also I’ve heard that if you see oil on the back side of the pan it could be leaking from the oil sending unit above aswell?

 

Yep. Valve cover gaskets tend to run down that way as well.

Torque specs should in the service manual.

Could use some zip ties in most of the holes, (leave four off, at the ends.) Get those four in, then cut the zip ties and remove 'em as you insert the next bolt. Get 'em all snug, then torque to spec. Go around a couple times, just to be sure.

 

sounds good ! So you never use rtv anywhere at all ???

 

Been a while. I had a really nice viton gasket...... I *might* have put a couple dabs at the corners around the rear main cap.

 

Another trick is to make some studs out of bolts about a 1 1/2 long. Then when you get the pan close the studs will guide it and keep it in that position until you can either put a bolt in or a nut on the stud. The magnum gaskets are all rubber now. Can use zip ties to hold the gasket or some rtv. But usually the gasket will come off before you get it to where it needs to be with rtv. Wouldn't hurt to put some in the corners and on the curved parts of the gasket. Don't use to much because the oil moving around in the pan can break loose any that oozed into the crankcase. Then it will find it's way into the pick up screen. The magnums are a lot easier than the LA's. They had two rubber curved pieces and two cork gaskets along the side of the pan.