You can check the bolts holding the crank sensor in, Behind the passenger head at the bell housing. If you want to post a video put it on utube and link it here.

 

Put some chemicals on that bolt, tap it lightly with a hammer. Do that for a couple days, then try and take it out.

 

I have squeezed my hand back there and the bracket that is part of the sensor assembly is tight to the block.
It was hard to explain in my previous message but what I meant was is there a chance the plastic sensor part came lose from the metal bracket part of its assembly..
I guess I just have to pull on the wires a little and see if it’s lose from it’s own bracket it’s attached to..


thanks very much.

 

At daybreak on Friday morning when it was covered in dew and a bit cold it started for 10 seconds then shut off, then I restarted it and it ran for a minute or so, then I restarted it again and it idled for 45mins before I turned it off.
Today in the afternoon I tried to start it when it was warm and dry and it started first try but was idling so low it shut off.
I started it again and it ran for an hour.
I even got the nerve to back it out of my driveway and drive a Klm. & thankfully I made it home.
I let it run in my driveway for another 20 mins after I got home and it was ok.
There’s some weird clicking noise coming from the front of the transmission in the pump area.
Could it be that the PCM sees the trans is in limp mode and it’s shutting down the eng ???
I’ve had no first gear (automatic) for a year or two..
or does anyone think it could be a bad Distributor cap ?
The plugs and wires are new but the cap and rotor probably have 80 thousand Klms on it..
thanks very much 🙏🏻🙏🏻

 

What's that in miles? 49.7K thanks google. Is it a brass or aluminum insert cap? It wouldn't hurt to take a look! The aluminum ones seem to discriminate way faster than the brass ones.

 

My apologies I should have known better than talk Metric. Sorry
Yeah I guess since I’ve had a new cap and rotor here for 2 or 3 years it’s time to install it.
The new stuff I have is brass but the old stuff that I put in around 10 years or 50,000 miles ago is just the Standard average stuff.
i have been putting it off because it’s such a hard job.
Where the distributor is and it being a 4x4 with a 6 inch suspension lift I guess I am just going to have to lay ontop of the rad and engine from the front and reach back there.
Not going to be easy for a guy who is getting close to 60 with a bad back and 3 wrists operations. But I’ve got to take a look inside that cap and rotor before just replacing the cam and crank sensor on a guess..
We had a ton of rain yesterday afternoon so I went out to see how the old girl would do.
It started for 5 seconds then died. I restarted it again and it ran for 15-20 mins and then died.
So I decided to hold the idle at around 900-1000 Rpm. After 20 mins it seemed to have lost spark or fire for a millisecond but because I had it held at that higher Rpm it didn’t shut completely off.
It just seemed to lose spark for a instant but by the time the Rpm was down to around 500 it caught it’s and kept running and didn’t die completely.
It seems to just lose spark for a very short period of time randomly.
Yeah that’s probably not going to help you guys with your suggestions maybe because it maybe still could be a number of things but I just thought i would mention…
Thanks very much Moparite I appreciate your and HeyYou trying to help me out 🙏🏻🙏🏻

 

engine crank sensor!

 

Yeah I guess from what some other ppl have said that is probably the most likely problem.
If it was a bad cap or rotor I would imagine it would run rough and misfire instead of just idling perfectly and then just dying for a second or suddenly and then starting back up again.
At first it would die and I could not get it to restart for hours but now it restarts again as soon as I turn the key.
I do have a real main crank seal problem so maybe oil has been on the crank sensor so long it’s messing with it.
Even though an old mechanic friend of mine says “oil on it will not matter because it is magnetic” hmm.
But maybe after having oil on it for years it has caused it to short out or something.
I’ve watched videos and tried to reach back behind the eng where it is located.
Not looking forward to trying to change it but I’ll give it a try I guess. I may as well put on a blindfold because that’s how it’s going to be changed..
thanks for your help/suggestion 🙏🏻🙏🏻

 

I decided to try a drive it last night. I got around 2500 feet and it cut out for a millisecond but kept running.
500 feet later and it died so i coasted into a parking lot.
Tried to restart it and checked for spark and fuel pump activation.
I had neither. No spark and no fuel pump cutting in.
So I plugged in my scanner and I got what you mentioned (no communication with scanner)
I tried the old school 3 fast turns of the key to the Accessory position and got “(NobuS)” in the odometer.
10 mins later it started up and I made it back home but it tried to die on the way home once,, but before rpm got to low it caught itself and kept running.
While pulling in my driveway it wouldn’t idle by itself and stalled so I had to keep my foot on the gas.
What do you think would cause intermittent (no spark and no fuel pump cutting in,, and Nobus)
Thanks very much I really appreciate your help.

 

Could be a failing PCM......