Brake Problem Puzzling Me...
Why not just bolt on and fill the master, attach the brake lines loosely, and crack/tighten the nuts and bleed in place rather than bench-bleeding (with a pad underneath to catch the mess)?
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.
If it wasn't for the siphon effect, it would work. However, you'll be sucking air back as the pedal is released. If you're prepared to spend a lot of time, you can gently tap the brake pedal and let the air bubble roll up from atmospheric pressure. When I say tap, I mean tap, not depress, the pedal. This will agitate the fluid and let gravity get it down the lines. It's just faster and easier to use the bleeders and bleed the master that way.
Why not just bolt on and fill the master, attach the brake lines loosely, and crack/tighten the nuts and bleed in place rather than bench-bleeding (with a pad underneath to catch the mess)?
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.
I plan on bleeding all the lines until I get new fluid through them as the existing is dark and needs to be replaced anyway.
Most new MC's now come with plugs for the ports to bench bleed 'cause it's cheaper for them and far fewer parts. You just compress the piston and look for bubbles in the reservoir.
I hoarde the tubes when I can get them because I much prefer that way. But you don't need to bench bleed the master here.
I hoarde the tubes when I can get them because I much prefer that way. But you don't need to bench bleed the master here.
Flaring tools aren't too bad but the cheap ones do require a LOT of hand strength. There are bending tools fairly cheap. I use a pair of specialty pliers to bend at the fitting. On longer preflred lines, I'll often use a piece of metal pipe to bend the lines. Just bend it around the pipe. It takes practice, but is fairly easy.
Most new master cylinders come with bleeder kits. They are little plastic doo hickeys (<-------fancy technical term) that screw in where the lines goes and has a short hose to run over into the top.
Appreciate all the info, guys.
Going to call around tomorrow and order one- and hopefully confirm that it comes with the bleeder kit.
Thanks again. This weekend is the master cylinder, next weekend is adjusting the bands on the trusty old 46RE..
Going to call around tomorrow and order one- and hopefully confirm that it comes with the bleeder kit.
Thanks again. This weekend is the master cylinder, next weekend is adjusting the bands on the trusty old 46RE..
If the brake and abs lights are on it set a code. You can't read the code unless you have a scanner that reads abs codes. You can ground out one of the pins on the obd2 port and count the flashing light to get codes. This procedure should be in the service manual. Try hitting the brake like the time it failed and see if it happens again. Hold pressure on the pedal and see if it creeps down. If it does you need a mc.














