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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I think with the unit bearing setup u-joints are quick and easy on these trucks. Can have the axleshaft out in under 10 minutes.....unless the hub bolts are rusted.
Get a ball joint press for the u-joint, or just take it to a shop. Use only 760s or the Neapco equivalent. No greaseable.
Ball joints are a bigger PITA. Sometimes i struggle to get them to go in square even with the tapered cups specifically for Chrysler
I did the ball joints and hub on the other side. I got the hub by putting the bolts back in slightly and giving it with a bolt breaker I got of anazon for for about the $25.
but that lower ball joint had me stumped for a day and half before I finally saw a guy do it on youtube. I had to jack the truck way up and reverse thd ball press add so the top of the press has that open circle and put as much pressure without breaking the ball press then through the open hole on the press hit with bolt breaker on a cheap hammer gun then lubricate and repeat until it finally dropped. Didn't get the big pop everyone talks about but it moved and came out.
Now I'm just worried about trying to do this axel seal.
So i finally got around to replacing the universal joint on the passenger side along with new hub and upper and lower ball joints, I still have the same horrible knocking sound when it goes into 4x4 and a turn on the wheel, any other ideas,
I now have a secound problem when I put in the ball joints top no problem and bottom no problem when I tighten up the bottom nut on the ball joint it pushes the upper ball joint up so its not seated, im not sure if the ball joint is too big for the knuckle and the knuckle is pushing up the ball joint.. so now i have a gap on the top ball joint, not sure if i can get away with that ? Hate to redo everyhing or is it a problem with the ball joint, it seemed like a fit.
Last edited by Brendancrowley; Aug 20, 2025 at 11:04 PM.
He was H tHat wit Was like tThey looked close to tue same, slight different design, but itwas like that with the other side laid a fewbyears ago. I did ggoof up and put the top joint in first and have to take it out in order to get the lower in first. I also used a little grease to press it in, did I wreck the upper joint
LOL, typing in a rush and no glasses.... I can't zoom in when typing only reading, I think my dog could have done a better job , let me try again.
They looked about the same, slight different design, but it was like that with the other side l did a few years ago, the video i watched showed the same thing new ball joint slight change in particular the rubber boot, i had to remove to install the lower one then re install. . I did goof up and put the top joint in first and have to take it out in order to get the lower in first. I also used a little grease to press it in, did I wreck the upper joint or was grease a bad idea and makes it pop out to easy? Should the knicke be able to slide right up to the to the top without of whete the ball joint goes in or should the pin in the joint get fat enough it prevents it from sliding all the way up?
for the noise in 4x4 it only comes in 4x4 when its moving particularly on turns.
You aren't using 4x4 on a high traction surface are you???
As for the ball joint...... I really don't think it should sit like that..... why it does though, that's a mystery. It isn't gonna come out though. Don't think that's possible. (unless something else breaks....)
How do the u-joints in the front driveshaft look? I know on my 96, the joints at the CV joint by the t-case were pretty dry and noisy..... that went away when I had the shaft rebuilt.
