Hi guys. Before I take you down this rabbit hole with me, I'd like to first say, "Thank you"! Thanks for all the advice and knowledge you share. I don't know what us shade tree mechanics would do without you! Now, Betsy 2... (1998 Ram 1500 5.2L manual 4x4) maaannn... I started with a tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, oil filter, air filter) along with a new water pump, couple coolant hoses, power steering pump and lines, along with new cam and crank sensors, ignition coil, oil pressure sender unit and connector. When I bought her a couple months ago I knew she needed a water pump. No biggie. Plus, had to resolve a P0391 code (loss of cam or crank sensor input). My friend gave me the other hoses and ps pump since he already had them. And, I always do a tune-up on every new car I buy. Well, after all of this, I thought FOR SURE that the loud "ticking" would have been resolved. Nope. So, I opened up the valve covers and lo and behold, one of the spring retainers was broken! (I attached a couple of pictures). Ordered the part from the Dodge dealership and installed it when it came in a week later. Started her up and she just sputtered and didn't want to get going, but still chugged as she tried. I thought I'd forgotten to plug something back in. Nope. I thought I replaced the rocker arm correctly: cranked (by hand) to the V8 mark on the damper before tightening to 200 in. lbs. Even lubed everything up with green assembly juice. I went ahead and made sure the rest of the rockers were tightened to spec also while I was there. Now, the spring that I replaced the retainer on DID look a lot shorter than the rest of them. I had allowed the valve time to adjust before tightening the rocker arm. Do you think my problem maybe stemmed from this? While I was opening up the valve covers again, I thought I'd check to see if I had any play in the timing chain by starting at TDC then cranking it backwards until the rotor on the distributor moved. If I'm seeing it right, It didn't stop moving until WAAAY past the 7 mark! (I included a picture of it too.) So, it appears I need a timing chain? All I'd like to do is just get her back up and running for now and worry about the timing chain later. (Let the current bruises heal first! THEN I'll discuss her possible impending open-heart surgery!) Or, do I HAVE to do the timing chain now? Or, is this maybe just a by-product of something I did (or didn't do) while messing with the valve spring, retainer and rocker arms? I thought maybe I should adjust the valves to 0-lash using one of the more meticulous methods? Even though it was my first time dealing with the valves, etc., I THOUGHT I did my homework thoroughly. WHERE DID I GO WRONG? Thanks again for your assistance. It truly is appreciated.

 

I take it that you replaced the cam and crank sensors? If so, were those Mopar parts that you used or aftermarket? I ask, as the aftermarket parts for the crank sensor can cause issues. Also, did you remove the distributor from the engine to work on the cam sensor? Lastly, what type of spark plugs did you use as part of the tune-up? These trucks really work well with the old style copper core spark plugs.

 

Yes. I replaced the cam and crank sensors. Both aftermarket. Did not remove distributor when I replaced the cap and rotor. Spark plugs were "Champion Copper Plus". But, it ran fine after I did those. (except for the "tick" and faster-than-i-like shifting into 2, 3 & 4.)

I guess I should've mentioned that in the beginning. 🫣 I had to drive it about 120 miles AFTER all of the above was done to it MINUS: the oil pressure sender w/connector, and the spring retainer replacement w/subsequent lubing & rocker arm torqueing.

 

Real curious what caused the retainer to break like that.... That's just odd.....

It doesn't appear the valve was able to drop though, so, *probably* not bent. When you talked about that one not coming up as far though..... with the valve fully seated, (or, at least, up as far as it will go) does it not match the height of the valve next to it? (when both fully closed)

As said, you want genuine mopar crank sensor. The aftermarket fellers just don't play nice with these trucks.

 

I should go pull the head and take a closer look at that valve stem. Or get a camera scope at least to look down the plug hole. Good idea.

 

Could try a leakdown test as well, if you have an air compressor. Think you can rent the gauges from your local parts store.

 

I think I found the problem. The square "rocker" seat of the arm was not "attached" like the others were. The Cylinder #1 arms came out as a set. (I am guessing they ALL are supposed to be "attached"?) Can I "bash" it back on there? Here's a picture of #1 compared to the #8 that I had been working on. The push rods still seem to be good and straight. Plus, I got some pictures of the inside of the engine. Pretty ugly. (This IS only a farm truck, but still!) Tell me what y'all think.

 

For future reference, when you replace the water pump on the first generation of Magnum engines, replace the timing chain too if there are a lot of miles on them. You've already done 85-90% of the labor already. With the pump off, you only need to pull the balancer and timing cover.

 

Yeah, it's like six more bolts and the balancer to get to the timing chain. That was one of THE best maintenance items I did on my 96 as far as making the engine run better goes.

 

The chain set along with all the other work I did last summer has my engine in "Fiona" purring smooth with plenty of gettin'. Between the smooth running and the Flowmaster 44's, I've had several offers to buy it. Nobody has offered enough money yet.