When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Uhhh just read the description there?s so many things wrong
2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
1. Valve seals are likely toast. Either that or rings....
2. What size tires, and what gears?
3. Could be any number of things, think I would start with testing the coolant for combustion gases. You can get a kit for that at your local auto parts store.
I have a video of something it’s been doing for a long time I don’t know what kind of knock this is but it’s something but it can only be heard at idle, and sometimes you can hear it tapping/ knocking and sometimes theres nothing
I have a video of something it’s been doing for a long time I don’t know what kind of knock this is but it’s something but it can only be heard at idle, and sometimes you can hear it tapping/ knocking and sometimes theres nothing
I can't really hear anything, but then, my hearing sucks.
to quick of a video, and wind noise, I couldn't hear it either
hydraulic lifter though so not much need for a valve adjustment, if it does you have mechanical failure that should be addressed. I don't think these stamped rockers even have an adjuster, its been a minute since i had one open though
to quick of a video, and wind noise, I couldn't hear it either
hydraulic lifter though so not much need for a valve adjustment, if it does you have mechanical failure that should be addressed. I don't think these stamped rockers even have an adjuster, its been a minute since i had one open though
I need to redo the valve seals and guides but Im just running it until it dies
No where did i see anybody mention a tune up(plugs cap and rotor). If the motor is tired put heavier weight oil in it. Might look at the PCV valve, If it's stuck open there will be the reason for it burning oil. With out hard facts don't just "assume" it's next to death. Seems everybody jumped onto the new motor ban wagon. Just saying.
No where did i see anybody mention a tune up(plugs cap and rotor). If the motor is tired put heavier weight oil in it. Might look at the PCV valve, If it's stuck open there will be the reason for it burning oil. With out hard facts don't just "assume" it's next to death. Seems everybody jumped onto the new motor ban wagon. Just saying.
I’ve replaced all the minor things the biggest things I’ve done is the plenum and I just cleaned the pcv valve yesterday so when it cools off I’ll see if it burned any
Just browsing through, I have not followed or read all of previous post .... I just saw a post mentioning using a heavier oil and oil burning.
My wife inherited her mothers Dodge Caravan with a 3.3 V6 ..... Father used a 10/40 motor oil in it because he thought it was fine and had 160K miles on it.
He complained that the valve covers leaked, lifters made noise, it used oil. It ran good and was dependable.
We were living in Washington and had some business to deal with in New Mexico .... we bought a house in Texas, we were doing a lot of traveling at that time.
I always changed the oil at 3K miles .... it would be 1 quart low then.
I decided to use 5/30 what it is suppose to have. The lifters got quiet, it stopped using oil .... at 3K miles I still changed the oil but now it was still on the full mark and did not use any oil. The engine ran better with correct oil.
The machine tolerances are so close on newer engines, it needs a thinner oil just to get where it is needed.
I also have a 1991 Chebby truck with a 350/5spd. The truck has 432K miles on it, no idea how many on the current engine ... I have owned it for 8 years and it also gets 5/30 and does use a little oil inbetween oil changes, I just keep a extra jug around just to add to it as needed .... A thicker oil would not be good for the engine IMHO.
I have a 1949 Dodge truck with a flathead 6 engine .... The machine tolerances on these old engines is so loose, a high mileage engine thicker oil did help and make a difference.
I would not hesitate to add a thicker oil to it .... or they had thick additives like STP that poured out like honey.
On older engines thicker oil had a purpose.
Newer engines I think it causes more problems then what it fixes ..... I would not even consider troubleshooting leaks, valve train issues without the correct oil in it.
The magnum engines are basically redesigned LA motors. Running a thicker oil on a tired motor is not going to hurt anything. You may want to try removing the PCV valve after a drive to see how much blow by you have. If it's excessive it will blow the PCV valve open and push oil into the intake.
@nathan3674 I just replaced the plenum ..... Now I'm curious.
Why did you replace the plenum and did it use oil like this before replacing the plenum?
Just to be sure we are talking about the same things ..... the plenum is pretty much non consequential .... May get a vacuum leak but not affect oil consumption.
V6 with just plenum removed.
V6 with plenum and intake removed.
if you removed plenum and intake and then got a bad gasket installing them, ..... that could be your initial complaint.
For example when you are cruising and let off of the gas and the engine vacuum is at it's highest .... you could be sucking oil and or coolant into the intake passages and burning them.
All 3 meet right here and is crucial you have good gaskets and sealing here. .... Blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant ..... black smoke is telling you it is not happy.
I believe your original issue is "When turning off cruise control while going 65 and engine starts slowing down, lots of blue smoke out the exhaust. 2. At 65 mph it’s running 2600 rpm 3. When in park and revved lots of white, blue, and black it’s varies from time to time"
