Thanks, I found a circle 95 on the intake like y'alls described that seems like good confirmation of the date. I tore it down today to get it ready to put on my engine stand. I found two cylinders with real bad rust on them. I plan on doing everything I can with solvent to break through it and get it to crank over again. What do y'alls suggest in this scenario? I only paid $100 for this motor so worst case scenario I can harvest the cylinder heads from it at least. I'd like to get it to turn over and clean it up for use as a runner while I rebuild my original block properly.

 

You might be able to to get those to break loose, but, if you run it like that, it is gonna smoke to beat the band, and have horrid oil consumption. The rings in those cylinders will NOT seal.... IF they are even still in one piece.... At the very least, the pistons need to come out, and the cylinders honed, if not bored.... depends on how bad the pitting is.

 

That and you don't know what condition it was in before it got the water in it. I got an engine that was not exposed to water and one cylinder had a fairly deep scratch from top to bottom. Was hoping it could be just honed but it needs to be bored. Guaranteed you have water in the crack case also so that motor needs a full tear down.

 

Oh yeah I'm planning to do a full tear down of course. I am considering using it as my block and having it bored and honed and cleaned at a machine shop. I figure first I need to unstick these two pistons and clean them up enough to remove. I'm hearing acetone and ATF or pb blaster is the move? Can I use a wire brush in the cylinder to scrap off the rust? Now I'm thinking of doing the vinegar with salt to create acid and then using baking soda to clean it up technique. Just to see if it works, it worked super well on my old jerry can.

 

It's gonna need bored anyway..... The engine in your truck runs at the moment.... Leave it in there, rebuild this one, slap it in, call it a day.

 

Yeah I definitely am going forward with that as the plan. My mentor on these motors Ken told me I should try diesel and atf as penetrating fluid and then have someone crank on the crank bolt while I smack the piston as hard as I can with the wooden handle of a hammer to break it loose. I think I'll try the vinegar and salt acid soak route too.

 

Don't use anything acidic...... no point making any pitting you already have worse..... Pour an inch or so of acetone/atf in those cylinders, then let it soak for a day or so. If it all drains out before the full 24 hours, do it again. That stuff works EXTREMELY well.

 

I had a locksmith clue me in a few years ago to 3in1 "Penetrating" oil. It's in a yellowish squirt bottle. I've salvaged a bunch of rusted lock cylinders with it over the years and it works on anything rusted together. better than WD_40 and it isn't a cutting oil so if it's in a lock, it won't wear out the tumblers.

 

Put it on a engine stand and have a look at the cylinder bores from below. I would disconnect the rods from the crank and take out the pistons you can. Get a brass wire wheel and clean all the rust off the top of the cylinder.
Start with moderate hammering going around the perimeter of the piston. Don't beat on the center you may crack it. Moderate beating first will help break loose the rust. If you read most of the penetrating oils (liquid Wrench, Pb Blaster etc) it will tell you to do this. Then progress with beating it harder till it moves. If the cylinder below is rusted up it may be better to knock it out the top.

 

On the other hand, if you have to bore the cylinder, you'll need new piston heads anyway. While you CAN reuse the original piston with an over bore of 0.10, it will smoke like a freight train. Compression will be very low too.