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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
So folks, I have a 1996 Dodge-Ram 1500, with the 5.9L gas and the auto trans. I got it earlier this year, she ran like a top. All of the sudden, it's bucking, misfiring, and stalling at idle. Replaced out of just pure guesswork-
IACV
TPS
(cleaned throttle body.)
Plugs
Wires
Dist. Cap
Rotor button
CPS
CKPS
Well, nothing changed. One morning, I walked out to work on it.. No spark, nor injection! I had an ECM that happened to match at a local yard, and said it wouldn't hurt to have it anyways. Well... Now it has spark. BUT, it no longer wants to (edit, I typed "yo" instead of "to" ) run the fuel pump. I can run a jumper across the PDC terminals and run the pump and it'll start, albeit the same as it was before. I'm out of ideas. And yes I have tried swapping relays around, to no avail. Any help would be awesome!
Last edited by Clappedoutwhitey; Nov 6, 2025 at 06:09 PM.
Still runs like crap with a different PCM? Are you getting any codes? What plugs ya have in there?
Yeah, it'll still run awful and will not idle. I have no codes other than the battery disconnected in the past however many cycles through the key trick. It has cheap plugs, bosch 6702s. Thank you for replying so fast!
Platinum plugs..... Not a good plan. These engines don't like 'em. Straight standard copper plugs please.
Have you tested fuel pressure?
I Still have the old plugs, they were fine but I figured there's no way to tell how long they'd been there.
I do not have a gauge, sadly. Of course, I can only get fuel pressure when I have a jumper on the pins in the PDC. When I have it "jumped," You can make a fuel pressure washer when checking the test port.
So folks, I have a 1996 Dodge-Ram 1500, with the 5.9L gas and the auto trans. I got it earlier this year, she ran like a top. All of the sudden, it's bucking, misfiring, and stalling at idle. Replaced out of just pure guesswork-
IACV
TPS
(cleaned throttle body.)
Plugs
Wires
Dist. Cap
Rotor button
CPS
CKPS
Well, nothing changed. One morning, I walked out to work on it.. No spark, nor injection! I had an ECM that happened to match at a local yard, and said it wouldn't hurt to have it anyways. Well... Now it has spark. BUT, it no longer wants to (edit, I typed "yo" instead of "to" ) run the fuel pump. I can run a jumper across the PDC terminals and run the pump and it'll start, albeit the same as it was before. I'm out of ideas. And yes I have tried swapping relays around, to no avail. Any help would be awesome!
How many miles on the engine and the truck as a whole?
See how much slop your timing chain has. Take the distributor cap off and use a marker or soap stone (absolutely NOT a pencil!!!!) and make a mark at the spot where the rotor is pointed. Out another mark on the balancer. Not put a socket on the bolt on the balancer and rotate the engine backwards. Watch how far the balancer moves before the rotor moves. I'm thinking your timing chain has jumped if it hasn't ever been replaced.
I did a major tune up on my '96 a couple of years ago when it blew the plenum gasket. I didn't pull the heads or exhaust manifolds but everything else on the top and front of the engine came off. With 168K showing, the timing chain was still timed but was getting a lot of slop. I found all sort of surprises. A beer can laying in the valley, oil soaked cigarette butts, a leaking oil sending unit, a balancer coming apart and so on.
I also replaced some broken bolts and put new injectors on it. I had to make a new gasket for the throttle body by hand and I don't think I did a good job as it idles low when you first start it and I get a purge code at times, but it purrs like a new engine now.
If you do need a new timing chain, go ahead and replace the water pump while you're at it since the labor is already done. Pull the intake and check the intake gasket too. I put the Hugh's engineering kit in but if you just tighten the intake gasket bolts with some sealant you should be okay.. I doubt you'll find an old can of Schlitz beer in there though.
See how much slop your timing chain has. Take the distributor cap off and use a marker or soap stone (absolutely NOT a pencil!!!!) and make a mark at the spot where the rotor is pointed. Out another mark on the balancer. Not put a socket on the bolt on the balancer and rotate the engine backwards. Watch how far the balancer moves before the rotor moves. I'm thinking your timing chain has jumped if it hasn't ever been replaced.
I did a major tune up on my '96 a couple of years ago when it blew the plenum gasket. I didn't pull the heads or exhaust manifolds but everything else on the top and front of the engine came off. With 168K showing, the timing chain was still timed but was getting a lot of slop. I found all sort of surprises. A beer can laying in the valley, oil soaked cigarette butts, a leaking oil sending unit, a balancer coming apart and so on.
I also replaced some broken bolts and put new injectors on it. I had to make a new gasket for the throttle body by hand and I don't think I did a good job as it idles low when you first start it and I get a purge code at times, but it purrs like a new engine now.
If you do need a new timing chain, go ahead and replace the water pump while you're at it since the labor is already done. Pull the intake and check the intake gasket too. I put the Hugh's engineering kit in but if you just tighten the intake gasket bolts with some sealant you should be okay.. I doubt you'll find an old can of Schlitz beer in there though.
If it boils to that I may just sell the truck. I have about 1,300 into it.
In my humble opinion, I'd suggest calming down and fixing the truck. If the timing chain & water pump has never been changed given the years and mileage on the truck, it's likely much cheaper to fix it than going with another used truck unless you get lucky...