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Wheel Hub Assembly Help

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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 04:00 AM
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Default Wheel Hub Assembly Help

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of changing my wheel side U-joints on my 94 Ram 2500 4x4 with the dana 60 up front. I removed all 4 wheel hub bolts , as well as the axel shaft nut. Then, I used a puller hooked to the outside lip of the wheel bearing hub assembly to pull the bearing assembly and rotor off. My problem is that only half of the hub assembly came off. The other part is still stuck on.

My first question is how to get it the rest of the way out. I talked to a mechanic friend, and he said to get a some linger bolts and screw them back into the hub assembly part way, and then just beat it off.

Secondly, am I correct that I should replace the wheel bearing assembly, or since the bearings themselves still look good, could I press the assembly back together?

And then lastly, did I miss a step or do something wrong that caused it to break apart?

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Courage
 
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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 06:53 AM
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My problem is that only half of the hub assembly came off. The other part is still stuck on.
The hub or bearing? Do you have a pic?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 09:34 AM
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The longer bolts trick works pretty good. Since they have been pulled apart though, continue with replacement......
 
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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 08:42 PM
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I picked up a Napa hub with a 1 yr warranty today for $118. I've always heard Timken bearings are best. I can get a Timken unit shipped to me from Rock Auto for $140ish. Is there a substantial quality/longevity difference between them? The price difference doesn't factor in much, but the convenience would be pretty nice to have it right away, although I don't HAVE to have it now... what would y'all recommend? Also should I plan to change the passenger side wheel bearing outwhen I do the u joint on that side, or only change it if it breaks?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2025 | 09:06 PM
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I only put Timken in mine! If you haven't been down the wheel u joint rabbit hole yet let me fill you in. Cut to the chase, Get spicer life SPR u joints. Why? Here is a pic of both joints. The one on the right was replaced when i got my truck about 60K miles. These failed about two years later, JUNK! Replaced them with mentioned joints above. My truck now has 254K and these u joints are still in it!



 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 05:33 PM
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Ok, I'll get a timken bearings for it then 👍🏻
Should I replace the passenger side wheel bearings even if it doesn't come apart on me just so they don't fail down the road?
Yes, i have two brand new Spicer life greasless U joints waiting to be installed.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Courage
Ok, I'll get a timken bearings for it then 👍🏻
Should I replace the passenger side wheel bearings even if it doesn't come apart on me just so they don't fail down the road?
Yes, i have two brand new Spicer life greasless U joints waiting to be installed.
Personally, I'd replace the other hub bearing. Great for peace of mind knowing that it's been done... If you tackle the right side hub bearing, you might also serious consider replacing the inner axle seal, too. They are famous for leaking gear oil, especially after disturbing it by moving or pulling the axle...
 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 05:50 PM
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Ok, sounds good, I'll go ahead and replace both sides.
As far as the inner axel seal, wouldnt i need to pull the diff apart to change that seal? Also, there's one on both sides, right?
Oh, and when I pull the axel shaft out on the passenger side, do I need to do anything differently because of the CAD being on that side?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 08:20 PM
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I think ya need to pull the cad, else getting the axle back together properly may be impossible...... Passenger side seal is easy to change, drivers side, gotta pull the diff itself, which is a pain. That was a **** poor design choice......
 
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Old Dec 5, 2025 | 09:07 PM
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It keeps the lube from traveling along the axle shaft/housing so more lube where it needs to be. I had both my shafts out and never pulled the cad. Cad side is easy, Drivers side you have to hold the axle level with the housing to get it in the middle of the seal/diff. That's a pita! And after you do get it in don't let the shaft rest on the bottom of the housing if you need to let it go. The weight goes right on seal and could damage it. Put something in between the shaft and housing that keeps it in the middle. This also helps when installing the hub.
Yes, i have two brand new Spicer life greasless U joints waiting to be installed.
I opted for greasables, That way you can purge the worn grease out and replace it with fresh.
 
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