What brand of oil do you use and how often do you change it? That sludge buildup looks like motors I used to tear down that had had Pennzoil ran in them.......Judging from the pics, a rebuild like you suggested would be a good idea. No wonder you have had misfire issues - I've never seen crap like that built up in the fuel rails and injectors. You might be right about the o-rings being "left out" by someone. Keep us updated on the process.......

 

I bought the truck this past summer and did my standard oil flush and radiator flush whenever I purchase a used vehicle. The misfire started around August and got progressively worse in September/October. I did the injector test that people describe, where an injector is unplugged and you listen for the engine idle to change. The problem is, when I pulled #6, #3, and #5, there was never any idle change. I do know that #6 was misfiring, because I went to Auto Zone and had the code pulled. This gallery doesn't look *anything* like the 1989 S10 Blazer I once bought. That thing was a sludgefest. Otherwise, I change my oil and filter every 3,000 and only use dino oil or synthetic.

 

I hear Ya! Thats why I hate buying used vehicles. You never know what some bonehead has done before you got it. I'm surprised the thing ran at all with all that crap in the fuel system.....Good Luck!

 

Watch this thread, because I am going to keep you all updated every step of the way. BTW - I am down in Oklahoma. You should come here one a free weekend

 

I could actually fly there for free, it's the free weekend I can't work out......

 

gooood god thats an ugly lookin motor VW... i feel so bad for that motor man... its sick... poor thing... what that thing really needs is a complete yank and tank.... tank that thing.... im sure theres a speed shop or a some kind of "jasper" engines that would hot tank that for ya... and give you a good idea for a rebuild kit... your lucky it isnt your DD huh? or is it?


looks like somewhere you filled up with 87gran dirt instead of 87octane gas

good luck dude

 

Those fuel rail internal views look bad.

Looks like the fuel system
must have at least one hose that is breaking down inside,
or a portion of the fuel pump assembly is breaking up.

There is a $25 Magnum Engines book by Chrysler Engineer
and Mopar Performance employee Larry Shepard that contains
a lot of the same stuff as the field service manual (FSM)

Like others have said above, I would advise re-trying to download
the 2001 FSM in .pdf form from some fellow Ram owner.

I say the 2001 FSM because that is the last one that contains the 5.2V8
and it will have all the corrections and TSB's incorporated in it.
There have been lots of corrections to the manuals and the earlier
ones don't have these.

 

Where can I get this book? I am very interested in purchasing it. Every little bit of knowledge helps. Once I get the engine done and can sell my house, which I'm planning to do later as summer approaches, I will yank and rebuild the transmission.

 

Amazon has it here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/155...Fencoding=UTF8

or

http://makeashorterlink.com/?W4B225CAC

looks like



I would still spend the extra money to buy an official FSM from Chrysler - the 1600 page manual is much better.

 

A couple of thing I would suggest if I were to be going in to that engine and rebuilding the tranny. First of all wow that has to be the dirtiest engine i have ever seen short of one 350 chevy I tore down from a 76 2500 4x4 (which by the way had 3psi oil pressure at idle when I put the gauge on it). Cutting and porting the stock manifold is something that although time consumeing is worth the effort when done properly. You maintain good torque while not choking to death at higher revs. If the main and rod bearings look good I would at very least change the oil pump out. I would hate to see someone go through all that trouble and lose an engine due to a worn oil pump (seen it happen Even if you plan on using the truck for work I would definatly install a tranny cooler and flush the lines. Chrysler trannies get HOT. The 1st gen durango v8 had a tsb on melting tranny lines LOL. Just make sure to route it before the radiator so it can warm the fluid if its cold out, or bad shifting when cold yada yada will acurre. Oh yeah one the best things Ive found to flush an engine with is rotella 15w40. Run the engine for awhile at idle and let it get hot and you will be amazed at how dirty that stuff is. It wont hurt the engine its just diesel oil has a lot more cleaning agents in it due to the dirty nature of diesel combustion. Good luck and happy wrenching.