Well guys I changed my waterpump last week due to the shaft wobbleing on it. The truck was cooling fine at that time. I put a new not rebuilt waterpump on and I started running 25-40 degrees hotter than my normal. I then changed the Rad. cap and thermostat in hopes they were the culprit but I am still running hot. I took the pump off today and see nothing visual wrong with it. I went and got another new one, and will install tomorrow. I am not sure what to think anyone have suggestions.

Items already done.....

1. New Waterpump
2. New thermostat
3. New Rad. Cap
4. No loss of rad fluid
5. system was burped (no air pockets)

Mark

 

Still sounds like you got an airpocket.
If you don't have one, get a flush and fill kit.
The Tee makes it easier to relieve any air.
I've had some pretty nasty ones that took a while to finally get out.
Did you try to let it cool off and then check again?
Sometimes the recovery system will replace any air with coolant.
Also leave the cap off. I also found raising the front end up cosiderably will help.
Just throwing some things out there for you.

 

I did let the truck run withoput the cap on until the thermostat opened and for a little after. I did not see any airbubbles at all. What is the TEE you are talking about?

Mark

 

The tee is a plastic T fitting that comes with the flush kit.
It goes in the heater hose and has a cap that you hook up the garden hose to.
When you fill it through the radiator, just take the cap off and it makes a nice air outlet.
Got two new kits laying inthe garage if you need one now!

You won't see air bubbles.
Ususally, if it is bad enough, it can push a half gallon back out at you before the hot air can get out.

 

i had a nasty air bubble in mine when i did some work to it a few weeks back... socha gave me the idea .. let it warm up and let the stat open up... then rev the motor up and watch the filler neck when the rad cap is off.. .youll see the coolant drop down... with it still reved up poor in the coolant and then cap it and then let off the throttle... tricky it sounds..defenatly a two person job... that helped alot for me but still didnt do it... i had a bad tstat

 

take and drill a tiny hole in your nwe t-stat wen you change it out drill a 1/16 hole in the center of the new t-stat this will prevent an air pocket from forming under it causing the t-stat to not open wen it should and the moter overheating. then take the old t-stat put it in a pot of water with a theromoter it should open around 195 deg f if its a stock one (syspend it in the pot if you can, use a pot with hadles on both sides then tye a trring to the handels and syspend the t-stat in the midle) this will tell you if the old one was bad or not if so thats your proplem. you may wanna chack the new one too just so you know and can rule it out if it duzent fix the prob

 

I changed the waterpump again today. It is still doing the same thing. If I just let it sit and idle it will not climb past 190-200. If I drive the truck it will climb to approximately 240 or a little better. I am definately at a loss now because I have did everything I can think of. I am open for suggestions so please help........ All this mess started when I changed the waterpump in the first place the other one worked fine, but was just rattling.

Mark

 

its gotta be air

 

correct water pump right? gotta ask

 

you sed you chainged the pump again but did you change out the tstat again too if your shure there is no air in there id say yout tstat isent opening up also make shure your heater is on hot too so it circulates as well