need check engine help
Hello
I need to get the check engine light to stop coming on my 1995 1500 with the 360
I have replaced lots of stuff this past winter and the light goes off and only seems to come on after around 40 miles. These are the codes I get and what I have tried to fix 'em.
code 25 IAC motor driven circuit- I replaced the idle control valve, and checked the leads that are expected to get power when the key is in the on postion and they get power, the book also states that when out of the TB the valve should move when the key is put to on but this did not seem to be the case but it did click like it was trying to move.
code 53 Internal logic module problems
this just scares me since i know this would be a pricey part not sure what I can check at home
code 27 Fault in injector driver interface circuit not sure about this one, I put a stepascope on every injector and heard an even clicking as well as when I took off each wire one at a time the engine changed idle the same each time.
I need some help soon since in one week I plan to drive from colorado to Baja and want the truck to work as close to perfect as possible.
new engine mod are
fastman TB, high flow H2o pump, new pelum gasket, new timing chain, new o2 sensor, and new IACvalve
Please I don't want to take it to a pro since I have spent so much on the truck as is and need money for beer when I get to the beach, by the way I have not noticed much in the way of driving problems when he light is on I belive it stalled once befroe the new IAC Valve replacement
as well these codes are from counting the light flashes(i think they are right), wish I had the obd II 1996 right now
I need to get the check engine light to stop coming on my 1995 1500 with the 360
I have replaced lots of stuff this past winter and the light goes off and only seems to come on after around 40 miles. These are the codes I get and what I have tried to fix 'em.
code 25 IAC motor driven circuit- I replaced the idle control valve, and checked the leads that are expected to get power when the key is in the on postion and they get power, the book also states that when out of the TB the valve should move when the key is put to on but this did not seem to be the case but it did click like it was trying to move.
code 53 Internal logic module problems
this just scares me since i know this would be a pricey part not sure what I can check at homecode 27 Fault in injector driver interface circuit not sure about this one, I put a stepascope on every injector and heard an even clicking as well as when I took off each wire one at a time the engine changed idle the same each time.
I need some help soon since in one week I plan to drive from colorado to Baja and want the truck to work as close to perfect as possible.
new engine mod are
fastman TB, high flow H2o pump, new pelum gasket, new timing chain, new o2 sensor, and new IACvalve
Please I don't want to take it to a pro since I have spent so much on the truck as is and need money for beer when I get to the beach, by the way I have not noticed much in the way of driving problems when he light is on I belive it stalled once befroe the new IAC Valve replacement
as well these codes are from counting the light flashes(i think they are right), wish I had the obd II 1996 right now
More than likely the code 53 is causing the code 27 or visa versa. The 53 code refers to the pcm itself. This is going to be a hard one to figure out. If the truck is still running fine, obviously the pcm is working. If it were me, I would start by checking the impedance of your injectors, basically put an ohm meter on them and see how close they are. If one or more are way out of range that could cause the 27 and maybe the 53. If the injectors are working then the wiring is in tact, but you could have a wire somewheree that is partially cut and just hanging on by a strand or two causing an impedance issue as well.
Have you reset the pcm lately?
Have you reset the pcm lately?
I will check the wiring of the injectors, I reset the pcm and cleared all codes about a week ago and got these codes at the end of a 60 mile drive anything shorter then 40 miles the light stays off. I don't want to reset now in case I need to take it some where since I know there test drive won't be that long thanks for the reply anything else I should check?
The only other thing I can think of is the pcm. You don't know how much it pains me to say this because if I saw a dealer mechanic near my computer, I would end up doing a stint in the pokey, but, unless you can find some other shop in your area with a DRBIII scanner, the only way to check the integrity of the pcm is at a DC dealer.
If it's just files that have been corrupted, and not a hardware problem, they can probably fix it. If they do, you are going to get a bunch of crap along with the re-flash that you won't like. The death flash, updated torque management, etc.
If it's just files that have been corrupted, and not a hardware problem, they can probably fix it. If they do, you are going to get a bunch of crap along with the re-flash that you won't like. The death flash, updated torque management, etc.
any one have any sugestions as to the Idle air control issue or code. it seems to idle fine and no change from my AC being turned on. Just the code. I am nervous about heading out on such a long trip with these possible hidden problems. thanks
agree with mopowar, don't know if the death flash can be applied to a pre obd2 truck. Normally these are not flashable pcms. hencs the lack of programmers. Could be wrong though. I will check at work. H ave seen some pcms that set what I call phantom codes. Can't find anything wrong but it still thows a code. As far as the iac, I've never heard of one "click" should be a smooth movment. It will be rather slow. check the port in the tb for blockage could also be causing some problems.
I might have to take it to the dealer[:@], belive me this hurts but hate to be in mexico when it goes in to limp mode or worse. My last baja trip was on a moto that broke a timing chain and I do not want make this one another recovery trip. thanks for the help if you think of anything else to check let me know
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ive had phantom codes... the pcm just gets its head stuck in its *** for a fewmiles then itll go away
id the the pcm scanned over to check it to be on teh safe side... but tell the mechanic if somethisn wrong DO NOT work on it.. theyll do that then slap your *** with a huge bill for a new pcm .. being the lowlife ****** they are...
you can get a pcm from a junkyard and have the info flashed onit for much cheaper then gett in a new one from DC/... that this is last case scenario....
id the the pcm scanned over to check it to be on teh safe side... but tell the mechanic if somethisn wrong DO NOT work on it.. theyll do that then slap your *** with a huge bill for a new pcm .. being the lowlife ****** they are...
you can get a pcm from a junkyard and have the info flashed onit for much cheaper then gett in a new one from DC/... that this is last case scenario....
Yea i agree with your feeling on dealers but I figure it is the only way to get the right scan to figure out whats up with these codes. who know's mabey they will do it out of the kindness of there hearts ( just joking I know dealerships don't have hearts) thanks for the replys



