Bought a 1998 Ram 5.2l, 4x4 Quad Cab about a month ago. It's got 93,000 miles on it, 3.55 stock gears, Cat removed, flowmaster muffler, new plugs and wires, and a new drop it K&N. I was having some problems with random misfires, I think I've blown a head gasket (or possibly cracked a head from some of the reading I've done). I'm excessive coolant pressure to the point that it's blowing all my coolant out the overflow, and overheating the engine.

While I've got the truck torn apart, I'd like to do some performance mods to it. I use it mainly for hauling and towing, but still need it to get decent milage for the days that I drive it to work and such. Of course I'm on a budget, what would be the best way for me to get around 300hp at the wheels out of it?

I plan on doing all the work myself, and I trust my abbilities to do just about anything. I'm just used to 4 bangers and not v8's.

Thanks in advance!

 

i have the same year and engine truck. With very similar mods to what you have already. IF you want 300 HP at the wheels, you pretty much have to go with forced induction (ie supercharger). 300 HP at the wheels is more than the HEMI rams are making at the wheels. I suppose it might be possible to do w/o forced induction, but doubtful. you could try changing out all your internals for high performance ones, like higher compression lightweight pistons, mopar performance heads, you would probably have to bore out the block.

Basically i have never heard of anyone making 300 RWHP without the use of forced induction. This doesnt mean it cant be done, but as far as I know, this is the only way i know of. And if you could do it w/o forced induction, you could probably just get a supercharger for less than all that would cost you. Those kind of parts start getting very expensive.

Good luck with the rest of your repairs tho! Let me know if you find anything else about thsi out. as i would love this kind of power, but im saving for a supercharger.

 

I guess I didn't realize there was that much drivetrain loss... Let's revise that to 300 at the crank. from 230 I can't imagine that would be that bad.... I hope....

Definately don't want to mess with the bottom end unless I absolutely have to. How much can the stock bottom end take?

 

Typically you can look to lose about 20-30% thru drivetrain lose. the 230 HP at crank is really like 178 whp. 300 at the crank should definatly be doable and will be a definate noticable gain (you will feel it in your seat). I have a catback system, MSD off-road ignition, K&N CAI, Autolite plugs, accel wires, and also, 93000 miles. read my post about restore, and use that stuff, it works to help restore your power so you can gain more efficently

https://dodgeforum.com/m_527393/tm.htm

I have about 208 whp, it varies depending on the day and temp. But thats close to 277 HP if im losing 25% thru drivetrain. Then if you get a programmer [$300-400] (supposedly good for about 15-20 HP, i dont know, dont have one) you should be close to your 300 HP. then upgrade your TB to the 50mm fastman [~$300 total] , everyone here really likes them and says taht they help a ton. that will get you there for not too much. again, numbers vary by truck by day.

Im not sure i understand what you are asking about how much the bottom end can take? Maybe siver dodge (has same engine) or the burning rom can get in on this one and help us out. I have similar goals to you, and those guys and many others really know thier stuff. Good luck with everything, and keep me updated so i can maybe steal some of your ideas

 

I have the same truck and I'm thinking of changing my gear ratio. The 3.55 just don't get the power to the ground quick enough. SInce you mostly tow or haul I think you would benefit from changing gears. I have a superchips programmer and I get just 15-20 hp with the 87 octane setting, if you want to pay for premium gas you can probably get 20 -25 hp. Changing your gears shouldn't hurt your gas mileage (might even help). The truck will rev a little higher but will spend more time in the power band and won't shift down on every little hill or when the wind changes direction.

 

How much power can the bottom end (pistons, crank, block, etc) take before things start to come apart?

 

You said that it had the cat removed....Does it have an o2 sim in the o2 sensors place? If it doesn't then that would be the reason for the misfire I believe.

 

It could account for a lot of your other problems too.

 

This I don't know... although it never threw a CEL light before. I'd imagine if the o2 or a sim wasn't installed I'd get a CEL.

 

The bottom end can take a lot im sure. the 318 is known for being bullet proof. you will start to have problems with your tranny and rear end before you have any problems the the engine itself.