I just noticed that the brake line on the driver's side (REAR) just above
the axle is corroded. This line connects to a rubber brake hose.

I crawled under the truck but didn't find any junction where a new line could be connected.

Is it a one-piece line running ALL THE WAY to the master cylinder or
does it connect in pieces somewhere along the frame rail?

It looks like I have to drop the 35-GAL. tank in order to change it
(and keep the factory clips on it).

 

I have a 95' 2500 which I am sure is the same. My Ram HAD a one piece line from the antilock valve all the way back to just after the fuel tank. Then it connects to a rubber line which goes down to a manifold on the axle. From the axle manifold to each wheel is hard line again. I replaced all my lines a few weeks ago. I left the old line abandoned until I feel like removing the fuel tank. The fitting from the hard line to the flex line at the rear is a 3/16 inverted flare fitting.

Good luck.

 

Did you have to use any metric brake line adapters?

Did you attach the new brake line to the frame rail or just
leave it loose? Thanks.

 

On my factory Ram brake setup there were various sizes of fittings up around the pressure diff/metering valve, plus the rear antilock valve has larger fittings too. I have removed all of that. My master cylinder is the old GM cast, one piece style. I only needed adapters there. The entire system is 3/16 line/fittings/unions..... all inverted flare. It's worth the time to replace any lines that looked extremely corroded. I had a panic stop a few months back and it put a pinhole in my rear line. Then I redid the entire truck, added hydroboost, and a rear disc conversion. I chose the option of keeping it all 3/16 for ease and maintainence if I was away from home. 3/16 is the most common size used still.

So anyway, the rear part of your corroded brake line will be 3/16. (That's the end where it threads in to the flex line that drops down to the rear axle.) The other end going into the antilock valve will be 3/16 line, but a 3/8 or 7/16 fitting. Either way, any auto store sells "pigtails". You can get any size thread you need with a 1 foot piece of 3/16 line, already flared at both ends. You would simply use this pigtail to come out of the antilock valve. The other end would already have a male 3/16 fitting on it. You would join the end of the pigtail, and the new line going to the rear with a single union. I hope I didn't mess you up with that...lol. It's easy, I swear.

Securing the line is an absolute MUST! Because I didn't remove my fuel tank, there is a 4 foot section where I did not fasten it down with line mount tabs. I covered the entire length behind the fuel tank with 1/4 inch vacuum hose. It works great to prevent the line from rubbing anywhere, and it keeps corrosion way off in the distance....lol. Cut the tubing length wise, cover the brake line, and tape at both ends and in the middle to keep the hose from ever coming off the brake line. The line is very secure on each end of the piece that runs behind the tank. And the new line these days is double wall stainless and quite sturdy on it's own. You have to intentionally work to bend 3/16 line.

There are some good articles on bending lines, cutting, flaring, etc. I will however tell you that the hardest part of bleeding the brakes on your truck is the rears. Because of the fact that the metering, proportioning, and brake pressure differential valves are all mounted in one assembly, you will have to hold open two vales to bleed the brakes properly. Somewhere on this site I believe there are the factory manuals in PDF format. Maybe email the Admin for help.

Good luck.

 

i would replace it. there known to go out right there and loosing your breaks is never a good thing. lucky mine went out right as i was pulling into my driveway. well maybe the garden wasnt so lucky but i dont think you need a metric adapter. i also did mine in two pieces so if it goes out again i can change it easier.

if your looking for manuals. looks at the top in the sec. gen ram info thread. you see a thread in there called ... i dont remember but it says AKA merry christmas thread.

 

About a month ago i was cut off and that brake line blew. Almost took out this old guy who pulled out. Anyways, i was able to sneak my hand behind the tank by dropping the brackets that hold up the tank and pushing the tank away from the frame. I didnt wana go thorugh the hassle of dropping the tank either. It worked out well and i just put an adapter on the line mid-way up the frame instead of replacing the entire line. The only part that was rusted was behind the tank. I was able to get all but one last clip that held the line back in place. But it took me about 2 hours or so. You should def change it before it blows out. Like i said, when i hit the brakes i was towing a trailer and almost wrecked that little car.

 

I have had mine let go on me also. Should have seen the guy in the Honda's face at the T intersection where I had the stop sign. There has been a couple of threads on here about it in the past. The line is famous for rusting through behind the tank where the dirt and corrosion doesn't get blasted off during normal driving because of the tank. By the way the right front above the hose block will be the next one to rust. Replaced that section last month.

What I did was to take the entire line off and get a new hard line from parts store that will reach to the area under the door. Get a flared coupling and get another piece the length needed to finish up to the block in the front. I made a couple of extra bends in the front to get the fit/length needed. Lay it on the ground and match the bends. Doesn't have to be exact on most bends. Mainly the angle needed to go in the blocks and at the supports. The clip behind the tank is a bitch to get unsnapped, but some patience and knuckle skin and you can finagle it loose from the front.

The dealer is aware of the issue and they said they use roll tubing. Personally I prefer the hard lines.

Fix it before it gives out on you!!!!

 

OK, I got it done today. I used jisthangin01's tip and dropped the
gas tank down a couple of inches, then pushed it out of the way.

I bought all of the brake parts at a local NAPA.

Here's a list of what I used which should help someone else in the
future:

One- #7818 Weatherhead adapter (to valve near master cyl.)

Two- #302 X 3 Weatherhead unions

Two- #813-1209 Balkamp 3/16" x 72" brake lines

One- #813-1203 Balkamp 3/16" x 12" brake line

$22.73 out the door for all.

I'm glad I got that rusty line out of there.

Thanks to all for the tips!

 

OK I am new here and just had mine go out on my '99 2500 in the exact same spot (right behind the gas tank on the drivers side)

I have a friend whose son also has the same problem with his '96.

I have cars that are about 40 years old and have not seen this problem.

Is there a recall from Dodge? Seems like a serious problem.

Thanks
Mike

 

I also have the same problem on my '99 2500 4x4. I also have a friend that has this problem on his '96 1500.

Please report this problem to the NHTSA at the link below. If enough people file a complaint they will force Dodge to issue a recall and Dodge will fix the problem and reimburse other owners for the repairs and hopefully learn the the few extra buck for Stainless Steel lines is worth it. They wanted to recall my hood latch for corrosion so they should recall the brake lines.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/


Thanks
Mike