very sexy! r those the new heads from hughes?

 

Looks great! The valve stem seals match your truck too lol.

 

Nope. These are aftermarket replacement with the thicker walls and hardened valve seats. I worked on them for three evenings. Had I not been pressed for time and had more sanding drums, stones, etc. they would look much better and I would have hit the combustion chambers better than I did.

 

Looks awesome! how long did it take on them?

so which heads are they? (castings?)

 

OK, my machine shop guru helped me dress up the runners and he ran the intake through his cleaning vat. I only had a dremel and a 4" angle grinder to use to cut down the runners. Mike complemented me, stating that I did a pretty good job considering the tools I had available. He used his air grinder and deburring bits to dress them up to get rid of the ridges and bumps that I couldn't knock down. Not bad for an hour of work. He and I agreed that if we had more time, the center divider should be removed and the runners knocked completely down. Maybe I will do that when I rebuild my transmission. Anyway, here are the pictures.

Steve, I will get the casting numbers from the heads for you tonight.

 

Gary, that divider could be out in under 15 minutes... it doesnt need to be polished up on the edges in my opinion, just hack it out.

looking at the pics of the runners... did you taper them off like the original setup was?

 

I am curious why the divider is in there to begin with. It has two holes in it and the gap between the divider and the valley pan is about ¼". I tried to taper the runners, but that didn't work out with the amount of room we had. Like I stated earlier, I will revisit the intake when I pull the transmission for a rebuild. I will replace the above photographs tonight with something of better quality. It was very dark in the room I had the intake in last night, so the camera couldn't focus, not to mention the problem of the flash reaching with the shiny parts of the aluminum. []

 

hey your shoes untied...

the way to get the taper is with the angled cutting bit for the dremel, then use the polishing bits I mentioned. it was actually easier than cutting the runner down. I HIGHLY recommend it. I think if you leave the edge sharp like that you'll end up with turbulance at the inlet to the runner. smoothing it out with a taper will minimize it.

 

nice feet

 

what's the latest with your motor? is it back in the truck yet? it's been a week already...