Plenum question
Captain
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Houston, B.C.
RE: Plenum question
Hypertech will definitely help and there's always modding the crankshaft position sensor.
I found this while researching the DF ... I knew about the base timing mod but did not figure it as a "CURE" for the DF:
WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,943
Likes: 308
RE: Plenum question
before you jump to conclusions on the plenum... yank the TB and look down there with a mirror & flashlight. unless it is visibly pooling on the bottom, it should be fine. remember your pvc sucks in gunk and will line the inside of th intake.
the pcm sticker is a good sign you've recieved the death flash... Another problem that can contribute to slugish performance is crap on top of the fuel injector screens... if you yank the intake, take time to pull off the rails & clean/flush the fuel rail. make sure the injector screans look clean.
the pcm sticker is a good sign you've recieved the death flash... Another problem that can contribute to slugish performance is crap on top of the fuel injector screens... if you yank the intake, take time to pull off the rails & clean/flush the fuel rail. make sure the injector screans look clean.
Thread Starter
|
All Star
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: MA
RE: Plenum question
Has anyone done this? Im gonna try it any way but im curious how well it works
ORIGINAL: Ramdamit98
Hypertech will definitely help and there's always modding the crankshaft position sensor.
Hypertech will definitely help and there's always modding the crankshaft position sensor.
I found this while researching the DF ... I knew about the base timing mod but did not figure it as a "CURE" for the DF:
WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
Professional
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Plenum question
I've done it I think it made a bigger difference in power and gas mileage than my hypertec. If you have problems with your truck pinging though I wouldn't suggest it. For those that are gonna have there tranny out or there intake manifold off that is one of the easeist times to reach it.
Captain
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Houston, B.C.
RE: Plenum question
I've also done it. I wouldn't say it brings the truck completely back to where it was before the flash but it was a noticable gain. We did it to a buddy's truck also and he had similar results. Before the flash he could light the tires up and after the flash couldn't do it even on wet pavement. After the mod he can break the tires free just not as well as before the flash, but he also has bigger tires now.
Here's a thread a couple of us were talking about it recently.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_559686/mpag.../tm.htm#561042
Here's a thread a couple of us were talking about it recently.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_559686/mpag.../tm.htm#561042
Thread Starter
|
All Star
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 775
Likes: 0
From: MA
RE: Plenum question
i used a dremel and grinded the holes as much as i could without making the hole open ended. i only got the holes about an extra 1/4 inch as opposed to the 3/8 of an inch that the article said. the holes that i have now are about 1/2 wide