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Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
#1
10-18-2006, 04:49 PM
Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
The thermostat is not easy to access as is the case in some other v8's. But it looks like I can remove one bracket and then I might be able to reach the two bolts with a socket extension. I haven't gotten up the nerve to tackle it yet. Can anyone offer the simplest way for this thermostat change-out? Thanks in advance.
#2
10-18-2006, 05:12 PM
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RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
I assume you are switching to a 180 degree thermostat - right?
Replacing the tstat is not that hard if you have some mechanical knowledge. Remove air cleaner assy and cover tb with a rag. Remove top rad hose from rad and drain into a bucket. Remove serpentine belt and alternator bracket. Take out the 2 13 mm bolts that hold the tstat housing. Use the hose to help pull the housing out of the hole. It will be tough the 1st time due to the stupid "front" tab on the housing. File this off after you get the housing out. Remove tstat from the intake, noticing how it is in there for future reference. Clean the gasket surfaces on the intake and housing. The new gasket should have a " sticky side" - stick this to the housing. Put a THIN coat of blue RTV on the other side. Put new tstat in hole the same way the old one was in there. Replace housing, and all other stuff you removed. Put some coolant in the top rad hose before you put it back on the rad to help eliminate bubbles. Refill rad, start truck with cap off and heater full "on" and run up to temp. When the coolant starts circulating add coolant until full. Replace cap and go drive for a while. You will probably have to refill overflow bottle to correct level after driving a while. Reset computer to allow it to learn the new stat setting quicker.
#3
10-18-2006, 05:29 PM
RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
Thanks for the reply. Should be fairly straight forward. I might mention that I bought my gasket at the Dodge dealer and it is not sticky on either side. Should I use gasket sealer on both side of the gasket? I surely do not want any leaks. And I forget the torque spec for those bolts.
#4
10-18-2006, 05:44 PM
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#5
10-18-2006, 05:52 PM
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RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
To help with bleeding air out of the system, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the flat area of the thermostat. This will prevent air pockets from forming therefore reducing the possibility of overheating due to not enough anti-freeze in the system.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
#6
10-18-2006, 06:08 PM
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RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
ORIGINAL: turkeyhunter1962
To help with bleeding air out of the system, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the flat area of the thermostat. This will prevent air pockets from forming therefore reducing the possibility of overheating due to not enough anti-freeze in the system.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
To help with bleeding air out of the system, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the flat area of the thermostat. This will prevent air pockets from forming therefore reducing the possibility of overheating due to not enough anti-freeze in the system.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
#7
10-19-2006, 05:04 AM
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RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
I heard good and bad things about drilling the new one. In the end I went with a NAPA Premium stat and did not drill it. I had no problems with air bubbles, doing it the way I explained.
You can put a THIN coat of blue or red RTV on both sides of the gasket to hold it in place. Don't slop it on thick or it might cause a piece of it to come loose and get stuck in the stat or somewhere else.....
You can put a THIN coat of blue or red RTV on both sides of the gasket to hold it in place. Don't slop it on thick or it might cause a piece of it to come loose and get stuck in the stat or somewhere else.....
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#8
10-19-2006, 11:25 AM
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RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
Prior to doing something to remove the trapped air when installing a new thermostat I would have to guess that half the time I ran into an issue with trapped air. If you don't have an issue Great. When you do it is a real pain and worry because by the time you realize you've got the problem it's possible you've already done damage. Just depends where the air pocket was at. If it is near you temp sender you don't realize you have a problem at all until it could be too late.
Anyway, I always do something to prevent the air pockets just cause I can't afford to take the chance.
Anyway, I always do something to prevent the air pockets just cause I can't afford to take the chance.
#9
10-19-2006, 12:21 PM
RE: Replacing Thermostat 5.2 V8
ORIGINAL: turkeyhunter1962
To help with bleeding air out of the system, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the flat area of the thermostat. This will prevent air pockets from forming therefore reducing the possibility of overheating due to not enough anti-freeze in the system.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
To help with bleeding air out of the system, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the flat area of the thermostat. This will prevent air pockets from forming therefore reducing the possibility of overheating due to not enough anti-freeze in the system.
A second way to do this is to physically open the thermostat and insert a regular aspirin to hold it open. The aspirin will hold the thermostat open for the required short time necessary to bleed off any trapped air. When the aspirin dissolves, in a few moments the air is gone and the thermostat will work normally.
#10
10-19-2006, 06:35 PM
