EUREKA!!! 11-12-2006
#21
#22
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sounds like everything is setup right, could there be an issue with the fuel pressure regulator in the pump? IDK how you'd test the fuel pressure w/o the schrader valve but that would be my next guess.
one other thing to try is to have part open throttle when you crank it. just in case the IAC is not working right. if it does fire up then swap the IAC out. DONT run it until it's fixed. you need to follow the shops breakin procedure which in the old days would have been run it at a certain rpm for 15~20?? minutes.
one other thing to try is to have part open throttle when you crank it. just in case the IAC is not working right. if it does fire up then swap the IAC out. DONT run it until it's fixed. you need to follow the shops breakin procedure which in the old days would have been run it at a certain rpm for 15~20?? minutes.
#23
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ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
sounds like everything is setup right, could there be an issue with the fuel pressure regulator in the pump? IDK how you'd test the fuel pressure w/o the schrader valve but that would be my next guess.
one other thing to try is to have part open throttle when you crank it. just in case the IAC is not working right. if it does fire up then swap the IAC out. DONT run it until it's fixed. you need to follow the shops breakin procedure which in the old days would have been run it at a certain rpm for 15~20?? minutes.
sounds like everything is setup right, could there be an issue with the fuel pressure regulator in the pump? IDK how you'd test the fuel pressure w/o the schrader valve but that would be my next guess.
one other thing to try is to have part open throttle when you crank it. just in case the IAC is not working right. if it does fire up then swap the IAC out. DONT run it until it's fixed. you need to follow the shops breakin procedure which in the old days would have been run it at a certain rpm for 15~20?? minutes.
#24
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Even If it was a fuel pressure pump you said you could smell gas, this thing should have fired. I was sitting around last night thinking of your problem, I am actually at a loss because If you have air/fuel/spark you should be at least backfiring. Could there be anything (sensor) keeping your truck from turning over, maybe something not hooked up. I would check and recheck your rotor bug to be sure it hasnt sheared the copper off the bottom of your distributor cap, then check for spark at the plugs, see If they are firing. Are they wet after cranking on it?
#25
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The distributor was 180º out!!!! I talked with my engine builder last night, and he told me the quick way to tell if I was at #1 TDC and where the rotor bug was located is to remove the plug at #1 and cap it with my finger, then have a helper bump the engine until the compression blows my finger off. I did, popped the cap, and saw that the rotor was 180º out. Popped the distributor off (what a PITA [:@]), turned it around, reinstalled, rewired, and she fired right up! Here are a couple of pictures I took while she warmed up. BTW - I *STILL* think this talk about drilling holes in the t-stat, or holding it open with an asprin, is a crock. Once the engine got up to 200 it opened right up and I topped off the coolant.
I took it down the road to the local bait shop/filling station, filled it up, and then went on a drive for around an hour, putting 65 miles on it. I did both interstate and side road driving, taking it easy on acceleration. I know the transmission is about 1½ quarts under, because the dipstick popped off while we were installing the engine. This thing runs SO smooth, that I don't know if it's the cut down runners, modified throttle body, or the polished heads that are helping. I can't wait until the break-in period is complete and I can see what this engine will do when I mash the pedal to the floor.
I'm going to Dallas this weekend (about a 190 miles one-way) hauling a trailer. No fear![Smile](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://users.wildblue.net/storehouse/Dodge/Running.jpg)
I took it down the road to the local bait shop/filling station, filled it up, and then went on a drive for around an hour, putting 65 miles on it. I did both interstate and side road driving, taking it easy on acceleration. I know the transmission is about 1½ quarts under, because the dipstick popped off while we were installing the engine. This thing runs SO smooth, that I don't know if it's the cut down runners, modified throttle body, or the polished heads that are helping. I can't wait until the break-in period is complete and I can see what this engine will do when I mash the pedal to the floor.
I'm going to Dallas this weekend (about a 190 miles one-way) hauling a trailer. No fear
![Smile](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://users.wildblue.net/storehouse/Dodge/Running.jpg)
![](http://users.wildblue.net/storehouse/Dodge/Running1.jpg)
#27
#28
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Thanks guys. I already have a new grille from a connection my dad has in a junkyard. Yep, the guy found me a brand new OEM grille, for about $80. I am going to see if he can also get me a transmission, so that I can rebuild one without having the truck down for a long period of time. Next on the list is a set of shorty headers and a new exhaust system
![Big Grin](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#29
#30
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ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
make sure you report back your opinion of the intake mods...
make sure you report back your opinion of the intake mods...
I'll post up a trip report on Monday.