right on! thats great feedback already.

someone was posting a question on the intake mods today in this forum, maybe if you have time you can have a look and give him your opinion.

 

Great.......no leaks or anything, I am impressed. I bet the intake made a hell of a difference cutting it down..............congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I wonder how effective the head work is on a motor that is lower rpms for the most part... say 4k & below.

anyone have feedback on headwork?

 

Looks liek I spoke too soon. On the way home I was smelling gas. I pulled over and saw the frame rail was wet yet again. So, I get back on the highway and I'm losing power badly. I had a helluva time nursing the truck home. Cutting out, blinking CE light, shudder, and dying a few times. I get home with the intent on finding the fuel leak. Sure enough, gas is flowing out of the vent hose (I lost a lot on the way home). I knew the blinking CE was a misfire, which I really dreaded seeing. I connect my diagnostic reader, and it has a P0204 - Misfire on Cylinder #4.

Now, why in the HELL would gas be coming through the vent tube? And now I'm stuck trying to figure out why #4 is misfiring.

 

Possibly just a random backfire d/t lack of fuel pressure. I had a plug wire short and it gave me 2 codes, misfire on the cylinder the wire was attached to.......and also got a code for a TCC (torque converter clutch) because my truck was bucking d/t the misfire.

Sounds like you may have some issues with that fuel pump you replaced, did you replace -O- rings on the injectors?

 

Everything, except the injectors, is new. New O-rings, new gaskets, plugs had *maybe* 400 miles on them -- the works.

OK, here are a few notes I made last night when discussing the issue with a fellow I know who has many years of automotive experience:
1) The night I test drove the truck, it was 63º, calm, and there were no fuel leaks.
2) When I drove home yesterday afternoon, it was 85º. Within 10 minutes of leaving work, fuel started to spout out of the vent on the top of the fuel tank. This vent leads to a charcoal canister located on the driver's side frame rail.
3) I made mention that I replaced the flexible fuel filler hose from the filler neck to the tank; however, one of the hose clamps was mangled when I was reinstalling it, so I only have ONE clamp holding the flexible hose to the fuel tank.

Our theory is that the fuel tank is not properly pressurized because of the missing hose clamp. This leads me to suspect a vacuum/emissions issue on the first part. I was thinking it was also a fuel pressure issue on the way home, because that thing was bucking, choking, shuddering, and even backfired a few times. It did feel as if the TC did not want to engage and I had a very hard time trying to climb hills. I did notice that when I first tested the truck the idle has a tendency to fluctuate even though I am holding the throttle steady. Could that be a fuel pressure issue?

I went to the FLAPS last night and purchased some premium style plug wire holders. I am suspicious that the plug wire routing needs to be reviewed, and that this could be part of the misfire issue.

Is there a possibility that I misrouted a vacuum hose in the engine bay that is causing suction via the charcoal canister and drawing fuel from the tank vent?

 

Sounds like your internal motor is pretty tight, I would look at the entire fuel system, you did tinker with it when you did the rebuild. I would start at the fuel tank and work your way forward, systematically checking every line etc..etc..all the way up to the injectors because your rail shouldnt have any dampness from gas on it. This is what I would do.JMO

 

"someone was posting a question on the intake mods today in this forum, maybe if you have time you can have a look and give him your opinion"


That was me, I'm getting ready to do some work on the engine and was asking how cutting down the intake runners would affect towing. If you are able to make the trip after all, please let me know how the truck did towing wise. I already want to do this mod really bad based on everything I've heard, but this is my only tow vehicle and I need to make sure it can do what I need. Thanks and good luck. Jeff.

 

I spoke to the engine shop today. He said that what may have happened is that my distributor moved, which is causing the shuddering. He also asked if I timed the engine, which I thought the computer took over for it. Is there a link, similar to GM and Ford, from the distributor to the PCM? I know that it's linked to the CPK, but that's not the link I want. I need to be able to set the timing with the distributor and then reconnect the distributor to the PCM again. I bought a timing light now.

I will solved the problem with the fuel tank pressure after I clear this hurdle.

 

This may be way out there - but I'll put it in anyway. My '71 Nova has an electric fuel pump. I was having issues with the pressure dropping as it warmed up. There was no fuel filter on the car, so I put an in-line filter in the rubber line between the tank and the pump. Now to the result....I cut off some of the extra rubber line and double clamped the rubber line at all connections. I now do not have hardly any pressure drop. SO - your theory about not having the line clamped properly and the pump "sucking air" may have something to do with it.......