The IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is located in the front, passenger side of the intake manifold. I've read here and on other sites that it can absorb heat from the metal casting and give elevated air temperature readings. By moving it to the air filter housing, it will stay cooler and give more accurate temperature readings. I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes, but it was a free modification, so I did it on my truck.

To move the sensor, I didn't have enough wire to reach to the air filter housing so I had to cut into the wiring harness that holds the wires for the sensor. This took a little time, since I had to be careful not to cut any of the wires when cutting through the electrical tape. Then I taped everything back together. If you look at the pictures in my gallery, you can see the red electrical tape that I used to seal everything back up. If you want to do this, drill a hole in the housing more towards the outside. I had a little trouble with the sensor hitting the throttle body.

 

See my post above, I messed up the area calcuations and have now corrected them.

 

I think the other advantage is the velocity of incoming air. Yes, the stock assembly pulls air from the fender which is cooler, but it has to take a 90 turn into the tube, then travel to the filter assembly where it takes a 90 degree turn up through the filter, then 180 degrees back down into the TB. WIth these setups, air is readily available, and can be pulled in very fast from all directions adjacent to thge TB.

 

Your absolutely right Silver, that's why I never liked the stock intake. From a hydraulic flow standpoint, it is very inefficient.

Quick answer on the 3" filter is that it won't work with an air filter housing that has a flat base. It does fit under the cowl, after hack-sawing off a bolt that was sticking down. But my S-bolt wasn't long enough to reach the top of the lid. I tried making up a new S-bolt and realized that you can't get it started into the TB because it hits the cowl when you try to spin it around. An intake with a 1/2" drop would work.

I'm going to try to make up a 2-piece bolt. I'm still not sure if it will work because there is very little room to get the nut started on top of the lid. A top lid that is dished down might be another way to get around the problem. Time to head to my brother's and see if I can weld something up.

 

i dont have a cowl induction hood but i do have a 3" body lift will this fit under it?

and you said that you can get them from advanced auto parts how much do they wont for them? and do they come with the s-bolt?

 

INSTALL COMPLETE!!

I decided to try the S-bolt again and it worked. I shortened it slightly and was able to get it started by lifting up the main wiring harness and weather seal. Picture of S-bolt below. This is the threaded rod that came with the kit and I bent into an S-shape. I kept grinding it slighltly shorter until I can almost get the filter lid into place without much of a struggle. It is a very tight fit getting the lid in over the bolt, but it works. I would still recommend a dropped base, assuming it doesn't interfere with the TB linkage.


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Here's pictures of the 3" high filter installed. I had the original 2" high filter on and ran that for a few months. You could hear it sucking air, especially at partial throttle. It had a fairly distinct whistle. With the 3" high filter, it is quiter at partial throttle. I think that this is because the larger filter allows the air to come in at a lower velocity, so you don't get as much noise.

But when I stomped on it it roared like I never heard that truck roar. At WOT, the old girl was much louder and had improved pickup in the mid to high range compared to the 2" high filter. I think the PCM is adjusting to the improved air flow. At partial throttle I was lugging it around 1200 rpm in OD lockup and it acted like it couldn't decide whether or not to shift, and the RPM's jump around a little. The truck did this before when I had made some modifications, but seemed to smooth out over time.

I stomped it from a dead stop. It didn't break the tires loose, which doesn't surprise me since the truck is heavier than most being an extended cab long bed and carrying a fiberglass cap. But I was impressed after a few runs at WOT while moving. My truck never picked up like that before. It roared and the tach just climbed like crazy. I can't wait to give it a run again tomorrow.

Thanks to Silver_Dodge and Racinfan83 for prompting me to try out the 3" filter. I might even have to eat my words and go get a high performance 3" filter and see if that helps any. Now I just have to convince my wife that the exhaust needs to be replaced and stick on a 3" exhaust. Silver, you were right, these mods are addicting and once you start, you just can't stop.

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Looks good. If you ever try a K&N or equivalent in there, let us know how it feels by comparison. I am still using the paper filter in mine, and it works great, but this weekend I will probably install the new K&N I got and see if it makes any difference. Overall, I am very happy with this setup though.

Mods are very addicting. I started out like you, just wanted to try a few things. Few things turned into a lot of things very fast.

 

I think that will help a bunch.

 

See my first post which is number 5 for the link to Summit Racing. I paid around $25 before taxes. My local Advanced Auto Parts keeps one in stock. If the lift raises the distance between the engine and the body, then you shouldn't have any problems. You might even get away with a taller filter.