I was out muddin today when all of a sudden, when I turn its a nasty metal on metal sound so im like... ****...

Get home and I broke out all of the needles out of the driver side Ujoint.
How much work is it to do it your self? I see I have to pop it off the ball joints, is that hard?

Im trying to decide weather to take it to the mechanic, or to do it myself.

 

Read this and then decide for yourself: http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php

You don't have to touch the ball joints.

 

DO IT YOURSELF!!!! It'll take you a day if you never done it and you screw around for a bit. It'll cost at least $400 to take it to the man.

Strange you didn't actually break it. Its actually hard to break a 44 joint unless you have like 37's or bigger.

 

Ahh... That doesnt look bad at all.

Only thing I dident want to get into was the ball joints, I would probably mess them up just getting it off.

Ive dove into minor auto trans rebuilds, so im fairly confidient with my work... It should be done soon!

Thanks!

 

Can someone assure me that I have the correct U-joint.
The guy at auto zone called it a "wheel joint" and it looks obviously like a standard u-joint.

Its "Brute Force" Model number 1-0297BF
Each little "****" (I dont know the correct term" is 1.188 in in diameter, and the length is 3.285
Here is a picture to better discribe it. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...7/DSCF1416.jpg

Thanks!

 

Can't find a Spicer 5-760x?

 

Is that what im supposed to use?
I just took what the auto zone dude told me was the right one.

 

The "D" in D44 or D60 stands for Dana as in Dana/Spicer. The u-joint called for in the PS write-up is an upgraded (heavier duty) item that should last longer than the original ... also a Spicer product.

 

Ahh. I see
I will see if I can find any, if not I will just use these.

 

297 is the correct number, but I'd use something a tad stronger than Autozone offers. Just my .02.
I'm amazed you didn't spread or break the axle. You got lucky.