The Pitman shaft seals have been shot for some time, pump run dry more than once, and fluid that is in there looks like a mixture of trans fluid and motor oil.

So instead of just replacing seals, I am going to pull it all apart and clean, replace bearings and seals in gearbox, rebuild pump, and replace hoses.

Tie rod ends are shot also. Don't think they have seen a grease gun since it left the factory. Jounce bumpers and ball joints will be done also. This truck has lived a life of neglect.

Does anyone know what the diameter is of the Chrysler Special Tool C-4175 happens to be, or the major diameter of the worm shaft? I know that if I just pull it apart, I will have a bunch of little steel ***** scatter across the garage floor.



Does anyone know if there is a thread about this somewhere? I cannot find one but I did find a thread posted by VWandDodge from several years ago about pump rebuild.

Thanks!

 

I need to do mine. The seals and gaskets are available almost anywhere. But no one has bearings/bushings. Even the dealer does not. You have to buy the whole housing to get them(atleast on a 2500) . Ridiculous! I plan on getting a unit from Redhead.

Anyway, there is this. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-34.html

 

Can't get bearings? That definitely puts a kink in the process! I am hesitant to knock the bearings out if I cannot find replacement. Maybe mfg part number is stamped on bearing. I hate to do this and leave old bearings in place. As contaminated and dirty as the fluid was, bearings cannot still be good.



(Thanks for the link to the thread)

I may just charge ahead and if I cannot find the bearings by part number or measuremnents, order another box as well.

 

gdstock, props to you for tackling that project.

Zman, nice link, very informative.

Just wanted to add that I've always been able to find any bearing I've ever needed, whether a parts store or dealer carries them or not. Any good bearing distributor can usually get you any bearing from any of the major manufacturers of bearings, (Fafnir, Timken, SKF, NTN, INA, ***, Torrington .....) most of whom make just about every different size and type of bearing used in any application.

If you can find and read the number on the bearing you're trying to match, you're golden. If not, you can still find it by matching it up by dimensions and bearing type (ball, double row ball, roller, needle, tapered roller, sleeve, thrust, radial; sealed, unsealed, etc.). McMaster-Carr is a great source for almost any kind of bushing, spacer, shim, sleeve, you name it.

And EBay has tens of thousands of bearings listed at any one time, usually for cheap-cheap-cheap.

***

LOL - I guess you can't refer to F-A-G bearings in here.

 

This is true. I have a place near me in Manchester (Eastern Bearing), I'm sure I could have gotten what I need. I've gone there for other bearings in the past. At the time, I had nothing else to drive once this was apart.

 

I have used industrial bearing suppliers for years. Even front hub bearings on my Toyota came from there instead of auto parts. Belt tensionee from Toyota was $134. 6204 bearing was only $5.66.

The key is the ability to get it out undamaged for measurements or bearing number.

And of course I need to slip a sleeve or bar in to keep 24 little bitty ***** from rolling around on the floor befor I pull the worm out. Repacking ball nuts is not my favorite task. Hunting for one or two stray ***** is even less favored.....

 

Do your disassembly in a pan of some sort. The inserts that go into roaster pans work really well, and none of those pesky little ***** can escape....

 

"roasting pan" That reminds me. None of us "turkeys" remembered there is parts manuals in the FAQ/DIY section that may have the part numbers.

 

Got lucky. Doesn't happen very often. Bearing was installed as per FSM with part number facing inside, and rust and corrosion did not make it unreadable.



As you can see here, there are rust marks on pitman shaft from bearing.




Lots of debris and dirt inside gearbox:



This is the inside of the adjuster nut:



One thing - FSM is NOT a good reference to rebuild. It gives info for different repairs, but if you folllow their sequence, you WILL drop 24 little ***** (2 different sizes) onto the bench. If the pitman arm is remopved, you cannot take the end plug out of the rack piston end as it will rotate, freeing all of those little *****......gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr........




Oh well, not a big deal. After seeing all of the rust and jonk, I needed to check worm very carefully and make sure the is not pitting in ***** or screw.

I will make a list of all bearings and seal ipart numbers and post in the event anyone else decides to do this as well.

 

Considering what Redhead does to the box, it's the best way to go. It'll probably be my Christmas present I give myself.

Red-Head Steering Gears