intake sensor?
i installed the cai from chrome intakes and there is a sensor that was located right before the throttle body on the stock intake. i removed it and was trying to fit it into the new sensor hole on the cai, but it is a little too short to fit in there. so i ended up putting my old intake back on and now after putting that sensor back in there the check engine light is stuck on. what type of sensor is this and how much do they cost?
it is the intake air temperature sensor (IAT). Did you break it or pull the wires out? It should have what looks like a little resistor on the end of it. If you know how, you could just splice some extra length of wire into the harness to make it fit the cai. This is what the IAT should look like:
Last edited by jkeaton; Oct 11, 2010 at 09:49 PM.
i dont know if i broke it or not but after putting it back in to the original intake i kind of had to man handle it a tiny bit to go back in but my check engine light has been on since i took it out and put it back in. how much do they cost?
is there any certain type of wire i need to get if im going to extend the wires on that sensor? im just kind of nervous to cut the wire and splice it myself.. just because of the water and stuff when it starts raining around here i dont want it like shorting out or something
I just used some spare 20 gauge wire. Get some butt splices, cut, strip, crimp...really easy. and wrap everything with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Never had a problem. Someone will probably say this is the wrong way to do it but you get the idea. Nothing will short out, just dont have it running when you do this. take a look at this thread...gives you the basic idea.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...re-how-to.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...re-how-to.html
Last edited by jkeaton; Oct 12, 2010 at 07:55 AM.
i dont need those resistors right? since im just trying to extend the wire, not alter anything else
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No, don't add any resistors.
Just use some 18 AWG wire, I highly recommend against butt connectors, using some heat shrink over a soldered connection, using electronics solder, don't even think about using plumbing solder.
I would then cover the entire pair of connections with some electrical tape, and split loom. The split loom is more for aesthetics, but does add some protection too.
Just use some 18 AWG wire, I highly recommend against butt connectors, using some heat shrink over a soldered connection, using electronics solder, don't even think about using plumbing solder.
I would then cover the entire pair of connections with some electrical tape, and split loom. The split loom is more for aesthetics, but does add some protection too.
awesome thanks for the info. 1 more question though. im not actually sure the sensor is bad. would the check engine light stay on after i tripped it, until i get a computer to reset it? or is there another way to reset the check engine light?
disconnect the positive cable with the truck off turn the key to the on position for ten minutes turn the key off reconnect the terminal. turn the key to on let the gauges jump around shut the truck off it should be reset... itll take some time for the light to trip as the computer is relearning its self.....
before you do this see i if you can get an O.B.D. II and run a scan it should give you a code and tell you what you need if you have an 08+ you can just shuffle the key to get a code
before you do this see i if you can get an O.B.D. II and run a scan it should give you a code and tell you what you need if you have an 08+ you can just shuffle the key to get a code






