Every Fuel Injector has Diff #'s
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Akron, OH
Every Fuel Injector has Diff #'s
I'm guessing that it doesn't make a difference, but do any of you guys know why all my fuel injectors have different numbers? Is it a manufacturing date?
C440DAC6-A2EC-4814-BD19-09BF4B45BDA7-3291-000003FB03557EF4.jpg
C440DAC6-A2EC-4814-BD19-09BF4B45BDA7-3291-000003FB03557EF4.jpg
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Sandy, UT. (SLC Suburbs)
The top number is the actual part number. The bottom number would be a batch or lot number, or at least that's my guess. It would help the track things in case there's a recall or something.
Last edited by FrenicX; Jul 25, 2013 at 08:57 PM.
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From: Akron, OH
Ok cool, that's kinda what I was leaning towards. I appreciate it! Watched a few videos on how to clean your fuel injectors and made my own little set up...actually worked pretty good!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyZnm...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyZnm...ature=youtu.be
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From: Akron, OH
Well, turns out I had to end up replacing 2 of my fuel injectors...glad I took to the time to check them out. Question now is....they were a PITA to get out and now with new rubber O-rings they don't seem to really "click" back into place. Any thoughts?
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From: Sandy, UT. (SLC Suburbs)
They really don't click in, for me it felt much more like a squish until it stopped. But don't do it dry, put a little fuel on them so the oring doesn't **** sideways and get pinched. Might ruin the oring or cause a leak.
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From: Akron, OH
Thanks for the input. I watched a couple videos and saw people use either a silicone lube or something similar when putting them back in. I'll grab some gas and see how successful I get. Thanks man!
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I replaced #7 (giving me issues these last two years) this past weekend.
What a royal pain to remove. In 100* heat in direct sun.
Anyway, finally got them removed. I simply just pulled my dip stick out, and rubbed a little motor oil on the new O ring. Slid right in. Then just put everything back in place and started it up. With a flashlight I just watched to make sure no fuel leaked.
Then went for a drive, about 4 miles, and checked again for leaking fuel and it was dry in that area.
Score.
What a royal pain to remove. In 100* heat in direct sun.
Anyway, finally got them removed. I simply just pulled my dip stick out, and rubbed a little motor oil on the new O ring. Slid right in. Then just put everything back in place and started it up. With a flashlight I just watched to make sure no fuel leaked.
Then went for a drive, about 4 miles, and checked again for leaking fuel and it was dry in that area.
Score.
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Thread Starter
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All Star
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 961
Likes: 1
From: Akron, OH
I replaced #7 (giving me issues these last two years) this past weekend.
What a royal pain to remove. In 100* heat in direct sun.
Anyway, finally got them removed. I simply just pulled my dip stick out, and rubbed a little motor oil on the new O ring. Slid right in. Then just put everything back in place and started it up. With a flashlight I just watched to make sure no fuel leaked.
Then went for a drive, about 4 miles, and checked again for leaking fuel and it was dry in that area.
Score.
What a royal pain to remove. In 100* heat in direct sun.
Anyway, finally got them removed. I simply just pulled my dip stick out, and rubbed a little motor oil on the new O ring. Slid right in. Then just put everything back in place and started it up. With a flashlight I just watched to make sure no fuel leaked.
Then went for a drive, about 4 miles, and checked again for leaking fuel and it was dry in that area.
Score.
Yep...
Win.
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From: Ontario, Canada
I recommend using a bit of liquid dish soap or silicone lube (spray) on the O-rings. This makes them a lot easier to install and remain undamaged - it's a lot easier to feel when each one is seated when the rings are lubed.