You can replace the rear shocks without removing the spare. It is not in the way at all. You dont even have to lift the truck. I did mine in like 20 mins for both sides with the truck sitting on the ground.

 

Cool I'm off tomorrow maybe I'll give it a try.

 

thank you very much for opening my eyes to the monroe quick struts. save me *** loads of money

 

Part numbers for the '06 V6 and V8 quick-struts are:
171100 - 4WD
271100 - RWD

Not sure what the difference is between the two as there length specs are the same, but the springs might be stiffer on one vs. the other. I had to buy mine at rockauto... they were about $164 a piece I think. I also used their 5% off coupon. You're welcome... I just figure might as well replace it all... should fix the bounciness.

 

thanks, and those shocks in the back so be easy, seeing how your truck is from the dry south, mine took a little longer because they were rusted, but not by much, one of mine leaked out and had no compression, put ranchos back there. I have heard good word about the monroes your putting back there tho

 

Not sure if this is a dumb question, but I see how to get the upper mount loose on the passenger side... but it looks like the upper mount nut on the driver's is in the frame with some piece of metal... is it one piece holding the bolt? I don't see an easy way to access it and torque to the proper spec.

 

Haha I just took a break from work to go look, and you are right it sucks, I can't remember if it stays
Or not, but you may be able to wiggle a wrench in there, try it, it is spins someone else will chime in

 

Just looked at this quick, but if you're talking about the drivers side upper shock bolt, there is a tabbed nut so you can just turn the bolt loose and the tab holds the nut. Unless like when I was doing mine the tab on the nut breaks...

I had to remove the spare so I could get up in there with a grinder. First I cut the shock out of the way, then I cut the bolt short enough to remove the nut end through the little space between the frame and box.

Lets just say it took me longer to get the spare out of there than grinding the shock and bolt out of there. That spare mechanism is the damdest thing. I haven't put my spare back in place yet. On long trips it gets thrown into the box because if I had to go through what I did to get that thing out of there on the side of a highway, I think I'd rather burn the truck.

 

LOL... ironically that sounds like mine... but mine decided to drop today so I blasted it with penetrating oil to see if that helps out. I did have to drop mine because the driver's side upper bolt wasn't easily accessible. I got the driver's side shock out easily enough, but my god the new load bearing shock was a PITA to put in. Since it has the spring I had to use a jack to lift/compress it into the lower bracket and then I couldn't get the bolt through. So I eventually came up with jamming the wooden part of my hammer between the frame and the shock and it got it centered enough to get the bolt through. Took about 3 hours just to do the one (with breaks it's hot as hell outside). So I stopped at the one because I needed to get 1/2" extensions to take the passenger one off. Definitely seems stiffer so hopefully the other will go in a bit smoother.

Also I dunno if anyone has shown the difference, but attached is a picture of the TRX4 shock next to the load bearing one. The TRX4 compresses real easily in the beginning (hence my bouncing) and stiffens as it's pushed down further. It could be over extended too, but they look to be about the same height.

Also thanks to everyone who responded... I really appreciate the help and information.

 

When I Do this to my 06 4.7, I have strut compressors. Would they work for the rear springs for an easier install?