ok been going through threads about e-fans and am soooo confused. i know i need a fan, controller, and a temp sending unit. but seems to be so many options, spal vs hayden, push vs pull type fan, ac on relay or not. can someone break it down for me? hayden controllers seem to be cheaper, and some have an ac on option and some dont, which way is best? Do i need a push fan (which i assume goes in front of the radiator) or a pull fan ( which i assume goes behind the radiator)? what cfm rating do i need? and which fan is best for the price. im kinda working on a budget but at the same time i wanna make sure it is reliable. have read the diy thread but an still confused. thanks for the help

 

I recommend the SPAL controller because they are plug and play. Your controller is activated by

#1 Engine Temperature. You can splice the pcm wire from the sensor or your kit might have a water temp sensor you will have to push into the radiator. Some kids have the ability to use an aftermarket sensor.

#2 A/C Compressor activation.

I using a Proform 67016 fan, shipped for $65
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Profo...item255aaa8c83
with SPAL controller FAN-PMW you can find pretty cheap if you bid on them fast.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Spal-...item45f2db5e2e

 

here is the fan i am considering.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67016/

and this controller, it includes the a\c relay and the temp sending unit. other than the not being plug and play, does this combo seem to have all i need to hook me up?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3651/

 

That is the same fan I have, it will work fine. That controller will work, but it will require you to do alot of wiring. Just ask Trucky, i wired up his.

I recommend bidding on the SPAL controller, but thats just me. It will not requrie nearly as much wiring, its a direct plug controller.

 

I just did mine last weekend, and it went smooth as silk and here is the fan and controller I used.. The biggest headache I had was getting that big *** nut holding on the fan to the pully off I think it was a 1 1/2".. other then finding a empty fuse in the fuse box that was only hot when the key is on which was easy I had no problems.. my total cost $155.00 and remember curved fan blades make allot less noise ten the straight blade ones..Cya Slick

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16749/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-396/

 

I cant believe you can do this for only $155 for the amount of power you do gain! Ive spent alot more for about the same gain. "Cough" ... on a cat-back exhaust .... "Cough"
Is there a reason you need the controller? Cant you just run your fan all the time when the engine is running for the best cooling results?

 

ok just came from o-riellys and was told that for the 4.7 engine that i need a fan to produce approx 3200 cfm because that is what the stock fan produced. anything less would struggle to keep it cool. he got his info on the phone with hayden while i was there.whats the real deal please?

 

Hmmmm...Interesting. I was just getting stoked.

 

Ive heard of needing a big e-fan for our dakotas, and thats why I never looked in to it more. People were suggesting going to a junk yard and getting the e-fans out of older full size lincolns and fords because they were actually cheaper than a new fan and could handle the size of the 4.7l.

 

Check this out..........
Some of us are actually running these efans and they work great. I have a 180 t-stat and my engine temp gauge stays at a 1/4. 2100-2200 is all you need, this is comming from those of us who have done it and continue to do it. If you want to go to a bigger fan, cool! (literally) Just understand these will work and don't cost alot.