Boost Accessories
Thread Starter
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
Boost Accessories
Okay, on my youtube, email and PM accounts I keep getting questions about what is needed to run boost on a 2005 4.7L Dakota and what part numbers. So here we go. Besides the main assemblies of the blower or turbo.......
01. Bigger Injectors, I use Bosch 0280156127 #39 designed for the SVT Cobra.
02. Depending on boost level, you need a MAP sensor that can read that level. I used one designed for an SRT-4 part #05033224AB.
03. Tuners. I use SCT DCX Xcalibrator 2 Flash Dodge Chrysler Part# 9550
04. Motor/Tranny mounts. I would love to find some polyurethane motor mounts like the ones by energy suspension. Since none are made, I had a custom tranny mount build and I use engine torque dampers.
05. I also recommend replacing your stock belt tensioner with a better aftermarket. I chose the Dayco 89254 that uses a compression spring vs coil spring.
BeltTensioner002.jpg
06. I also recommend a 180 thermostat. I'm currently using he one made by Jet part# 10177
07. Spark plugs. For every 70 to 100 hp you you increase at the crank, you should go a range colder. I run NGK BKR7E stock# 4644 which are one range colder than stock.
You might even consider one of these.
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php
You should also look at aftermarket gauges. Wideband A/F and boost are critical for tuning and monitoring your engines performance.
Buy some extra radiator hose to run to the heater core, some extra vacuum hose as you will need that also.
Be prepared to have new A/C lines fabricated if you run a blower.
Be prepared to rearrange everything in your engine bay, lol.
Look into boost cooling. I.e. intercoolers, water/meth injection etc.
Available Superchargers
Paxton Novi 1000 clockwise rotation
Paxton Novi 2000 in a Novi 1000 bracket
DSCN1453.jpg
Kenne Bell 4.7L blower
0301001327.jpg
Airram 4.6 to 4.7 adapter plate with Eaton M112
DSC01666.jpg
Download Paxton's Instruction Manual for the Novi 1000
http://www.paxtonauto.com/download.p...le=4809641.pdf
Also for the 4.7L Durango
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...IPttGSw6qXh80w
01. Bigger Injectors, I use Bosch 0280156127 #39 designed for the SVT Cobra.
02. Depending on boost level, you need a MAP sensor that can read that level. I used one designed for an SRT-4 part #05033224AB.
03. Tuners. I use SCT DCX Xcalibrator 2 Flash Dodge Chrysler Part# 9550
04. Motor/Tranny mounts. I would love to find some polyurethane motor mounts like the ones by energy suspension. Since none are made, I had a custom tranny mount build and I use engine torque dampers.
05. I also recommend replacing your stock belt tensioner with a better aftermarket. I chose the Dayco 89254 that uses a compression spring vs coil spring.
BeltTensioner002.jpg
06. I also recommend a 180 thermostat. I'm currently using he one made by Jet part# 10177
07. Spark plugs. For every 70 to 100 hp you you increase at the crank, you should go a range colder. I run NGK BKR7E stock# 4644 which are one range colder than stock.
You might even consider one of these.
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php
You should also look at aftermarket gauges. Wideband A/F and boost are critical for tuning and monitoring your engines performance.
Buy some extra radiator hose to run to the heater core, some extra vacuum hose as you will need that also.
Be prepared to have new A/C lines fabricated if you run a blower.
Be prepared to rearrange everything in your engine bay, lol.
Look into boost cooling. I.e. intercoolers, water/meth injection etc.
Available Superchargers
Paxton Novi 1000 clockwise rotation
Paxton Novi 2000 in a Novi 1000 bracket
DSCN1453.jpg
Kenne Bell 4.7L blower
0301001327.jpg
Airram 4.6 to 4.7 adapter plate with Eaton M112
DSC01666.jpg
Download Paxton's Instruction Manual for the Novi 1000
http://www.paxtonauto.com/download.p...le=4809641.pdf
Also for the 4.7L Durango
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...IPttGSw6qXh80w
Guest
Posts: n/a
I can add a little more info, if your running a turbo, be ready to get an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Aeromotive makes a universal kit that will adjust past 30PSI of boost. that is way more than you will ever need in a 4.7.
If your running a remote turbo setup, intercooling isnt as big a deal, but boost makes a lot of heat.
Blown might also want to add that high flow cats, headers and exhaust are also highly suggested.
If your running a remote turbo setup, intercooling isnt as big a deal, but boost makes a lot of heat.
Blown might also want to add that high flow cats, headers and exhaust are also highly suggested.
Thread Starter
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
Our cats are in no way, shape or form are high flow, lol.
Thread Starter
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Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
I don't know which factory has the best OEM cat. I know if you look at the Charger forums there are dozens of reports of cat failure at 40K miles. I've been at the dyno and seen Dodge OEM cats glow bright red as they could not flow the boost out of the block fast enough.
King Jackass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,610
Likes: 5
From: Aurora, CO
I think I can add just a little bit of suggested information based on my experience 
Consider the power adder: Supercharger vs. Turbocharger
-Each make intake system pressurized, therefore the term "boost leaks" should be the first thing you check every/other week. If you don't, it will result in poor performance (if you are turbocharged, it can result in turbocharger failure).
-Use quality hose connections for f#$%-sake. I am sick of hearing about people "blowing" hose connections because they make "soooo" much boost. Get real, stop your b*tching and get quality stuff that is worth a f#%^.
-Use quality vacuum line. Silicone vacuum line will not collapse/expand like traditional automotive vacuum line. Or, get braided line. I use -4 ss braided line on almost all of my vacuum/boost sources.
Here are two awesome places that carry quality hose connections:
http://siliconeintakes.com/
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
The only other thing I can say is, take it easy on your DD that is now boosted. Don't flog the truck everywhere you go, all the time. These engines were not meant for that kind of cylinder pressure they way they sit. In order to acheive longevity, consider the following:
-Use ARP hardware for headstuds, mainstuds, exhaust manifold studs (if applicable).
-Get quality headgaskets: I use Cometic and have for the past 6 years.
-Quality connecting rods, pistons, and wrist pins are essential. I highly recommend sticking with tool steel wrist pins, forged aluminum pistons, and forged steel connecting rods.
Ok, now lets talk boost control: Whether you are turbocharged or supercharged, a quality compressor bypass valve is essential in longevity of either.
Tial makes amazing products. Here are some pictures of their compressor bypass valves (blow off valve, pop off valve) and wastegates.
44mm wastegate
50mm blowoff valve
Regulating boost control can be very fancy. There are all types of electronic advancements in controlling boost levels. Personally, I like simplicity. Hallman has always been the leader in manual boost controllers. After ditching two other boost controllers, the Hallman was the winner for me, and is for the majority of turbocharged applications. Here is a picture of it.
Consider the power adder: Supercharger vs. Turbocharger
-Each make intake system pressurized, therefore the term "boost leaks" should be the first thing you check every/other week. If you don't, it will result in poor performance (if you are turbocharged, it can result in turbocharger failure).
-Use quality hose connections for f#$%-sake. I am sick of hearing about people "blowing" hose connections because they make "soooo" much boost. Get real, stop your b*tching and get quality stuff that is worth a f#%^.
-Use quality vacuum line. Silicone vacuum line will not collapse/expand like traditional automotive vacuum line. Or, get braided line. I use -4 ss braided line on almost all of my vacuum/boost sources.
Here are two awesome places that carry quality hose connections:
http://siliconeintakes.com/
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
The only other thing I can say is, take it easy on your DD that is now boosted. Don't flog the truck everywhere you go, all the time. These engines were not meant for that kind of cylinder pressure they way they sit. In order to acheive longevity, consider the following:
-Use ARP hardware for headstuds, mainstuds, exhaust manifold studs (if applicable).
-Get quality headgaskets: I use Cometic and have for the past 6 years.
-Quality connecting rods, pistons, and wrist pins are essential. I highly recommend sticking with tool steel wrist pins, forged aluminum pistons, and forged steel connecting rods.
Ok, now lets talk boost control: Whether you are turbocharged or supercharged, a quality compressor bypass valve is essential in longevity of either.
Tial makes amazing products. Here are some pictures of their compressor bypass valves (blow off valve, pop off valve) and wastegates.
44mm wastegate
50mm blowoff valve
Regulating boost control can be very fancy. There are all types of electronic advancements in controlling boost levels. Personally, I like simplicity. Hallman has always been the leader in manual boost controllers. After ditching two other boost controllers, the Hallman was the winner for me, and is for the majority of turbocharged applications. Here is a picture of it.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 2
From: Pennsylvania
this thread is going to help me alot... I now no what exactly has to be done to boost my truck
