yeah, i forgot to check mine after i installed my leveling kit...took about 2 turns to bring them back down to the proper level.

 

What size torx bit is needed to R&R headlight assembly on my 2007 Dakota??

 

My 05 is 10MM, I believe.

 

I see several people referring to a torx bit to remove the screws on the front headlamp, my question is what size torx bit

 

Did you read the post just before yours? It's stated right there.

 

I just pulled the headlights out of my 2005 Dodge Dakota and have the following observations. First off they are designed to be removed quickly and easily by accessing them from the front only. This makes sense as they must be removed to change a bulb. Mine had three torx 30 screws to be removed, two were accessed by peeking back in the border between the radiator and the headlight. The third was accessible below and to the outside of the headlight, marked by a notch in the lower part of the headlight. I used a 1/4 inch drive torx 30 bit with a 6 inch and 3 inch socket extension and my incredibly useful Milwaukee M12 12-volt cordless 3/8 inch drive ratchet to spin the torx screws out.

Once the bolts were loose I fished them out with some very long needle nosed pliers, any such long thin grabbers would work. Then the hard part begins. There is a stud with a ball on it sticking out the back of the headlight housing in the upper outer quadrant that snaps into a plastic fitting in the frame of the car. My first try I pried out the headlight with a plastic pry tool and ended up breaking the plastic socket for the ball. It seems important to pull the light straight out for two reasons, one is to avoid breaking the plastic ball snap socket, the other is because the headlight housing has some long thin alignment studs on it that may break if the headlight is crooked as it is yanked out. I ended up prying and pulling at the same time and the second light came out without incident.

The connectors for the bulbs are quite secure! Slide the red plastic lock mechanism away from the headlight, then push with your thumb to release the catch on the part of the connector that the lock occupied and blocked before you slid it back, and for me I pried with a screwdriver at the base and they slid off easily.

 

It's common for the plastic retainer (55077613AB) for the ball stud to break on an older dakota due to fatigue.They are easily replaced and available in a 4 pack on amazon for about $2.20 ea including shipping.The screws can be substituted with M6-1.0 flange head available locally at any decent autoparts or hardware store and removed with a common 10mm socket instead of a torx.I like to use a little dab of white lithium grease on the ball stud to aid in removal and installation of the headlamp.

 

Thank you. I knew to pull the red tabs out but I wasn't having luck after that. I also figured out if you push them together first and then pull apart it was much easier.

The adjustment screw is T20.

Don't forget to wear rubber gloves around the bulbs to keep your oils from shortening the life of them.