You must live in a very expensive world....

Most of the custom axle swaps were developed to save money, especially the 9" style axle swap.

C-clip eliminators do not limit axle choice, I don't know where you are getting this idea from.

As far as cromoly being used, there are some divisions in the racing world and discussion on it's true safety and strength. It's fact that it's more brittle than more mild steels, which means that it doesn't like shock loading. I'd rather have an axle bend or twist than break on me.

If you twist even cut splines, then you are well beyond the need to ask a forum for help on axle selection. Cut splines work fine on many vehicles I've seen, been around and worked on. This application being discussed here, would do fine with cut down and re-splined axles, if the decision was made to go that route.

I still think just finding a stock LSD would be the best route for most people. My OEM LSD works great.

 

C-clip eliminators usually require the use of specific axle shafts, therefore making what would normally be junkyard spares into custom ordered spares.

As far as chromoly in the racing world, your right.. I have no idea what so ever. but being that we're talking about a 4wd and use off road, I know exactly what I'm talking about, they are very common place for durability and strength. I'm even runnin chromoly stub shafts on my front d44 in my lil rock crawler. The only reason I'm NOT runnin em in the rear 9" is its a standard cup car 9" and I've still got about 3 spares that were free.

I'm sure there's many differences between the track and the trail, and chromoly axles happen to be one of them.

As for twisting splines, I've sheered them off before, cut OR rolled, but the rolled are stronger. ...and I do agree, that for standard street use with normal tires, your probably not going to stress out an axle so hard that you destroy a shortened stock shaft with cut splines and a press on adapter bearing for a c-clip eliminator. But I also know that if you start getting into the more serious wheeling, these parts break alot more frequently making it cheaper to buy the more expensive part once vs the cheaper part 3 times.

Being that the Original Poster was going as far as looking at a serious locker (arb, detroit,ox) vs a simple/cheaper lunch locker, that would also lead me to belive that he's intrested in durability and reliability, therefore I brought up the strength differences and the better/superior parts for his application.

I wish I lived in an "expensive" world, but I have to work for every penny I get, that being said, I'd rather spend the extra few dollars to ensure I won't be replacing the part later.

And again, I agree that a standard LSD or lunch locker is more the sufficient for most "normal" activities.

 

FG fan? I am not familiar with that one.

Besides that, I never said that I actually wanted to do that, it was one of those, is it possible type things.

As for the LSD...Because in my honest opinion, unless you are on a level or slight incline that lsd is about worthless. I have yet to have see one that would make it up my driveway without locking 4 wheel if you hit a patch of wet leaves, or go around the bend to far on one side or the other, and catch some mud.

Take that fact and imagine pulling up the driveway with a load of firewood in the bed, a trailer full behind you, and a log splitter behind that. The only thing that will keep that slick wheel from spinning, is an auto locker, spool, or selectable locker.

My dream would be an auto locker that has an option to tell it to not lock at all. That way on snow roads, you could tell it to not lock, and would be a little easier to control.

 

Here is my thread. I originally went with an OEM Limited Slip and it worked great at first. Through multiple launches it doesn't always engage both down low so I opted for the Auburn LSD. Mine is 9.25 rear, 31 spline, 4.10 gears.

Here is the thread.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...t-project.html

 

how much spine do you still get blown if any at all?

 

Huh?

The number of splines on an axle shaft are just a numerical value. The more splines you have, the stronger the axle is in the receiver (more splines = larger diameter). This concept is similar to sprocket gears on a bicycle. The more teeth, the bigger the sprocket.

 

I think he ment wheel spin off the line.

 

I probably should have read that a little more carefully. DOH!

 

Donkey, that was priceless. I was thinking along the same lines as you so don't feel bad. Actually I never got the new LSD installed, it's still sitting in the garage with the rest of my "to do" projects I still haven't finished, lol.

 

See the difference between your usage and mine is that you have somewhat uniform traction on each side. From the post, it sounds as though you are doing most of this on pavement, (also assumed by the tires on your tuck)

In my case, there is a huge difference between wheels as far as traction goes, gravel under one, mud under the other.

I agree with others, that limited slips are okay for general use, especially those that have somewhat uniform traction between the wheels. I still stand by my statement, that they are almost worthless on anything more than a slight incline, with one slick wheel.

I thank you for giving me confirmation that they are 31 spline axles, when I looked up the receipt, for the ram, it was a 31 spline also.