Fastman TB installed!
If you want to try centering the blade, you'll need a 2.5mm allen wrench, a heat gun and a T20 tamper-proof torx bit. The screws are set with loctite so to keep from stripping the heads on the screws, you need to use the heat gun to heat the bottom side of the throttle shaft on the threaded end of the screw while applying modest pressure with the allen wrench. Once the loctite heats up, the screw will pop loose. Do not completely remove the throttle blade screws, just loosen them up to the point where the blade is loose on the shaft. Using the T20 torx bit, turn the adjusting screw until it's flush with the top of the linkage tab. Open the blade about 1/3 of the way and let it snap closed 2-3 times, this centers the blade inside the bore, then tighten the 2 blades screws. At this point the linkage should be setting flush on top of the tab and the blades should be felling the blade stick inside the bore when you try to open it up. Turn the adjusting screw about 1/2 turn at a time until the blade no longer sticks and the throttle opens and closes smoothly. Reheat the throttle shaft and torque down the screws, let it cool off and the loctite will reactivate locking the screws back in place. After doing this, the gap should be closed up considerably and the idle should be in the 650-700 rpm range. If the idle rpms are any more than that, then I'd suggest trying to get Dan to replace it.
If you want to try centering the blade, you'll need a 2.5mm allen wrench, a heat gun and a T20 tamper-proof torx bit. The screws are set with loctite so to keep from stripping the heads on the screws, you need to use the heat gun to heat the bottom side of the throttle shaft on the threaded end of the screw while applying modest pressure with the allen wrench. Once the loctite heats up, the screw will pop loose. Do not completely remove the throttle blade screws, just loosen them up to the point where the blade is loose on the shaft. Using the T20 torx bit, turn the adjusting screw until it's flush with the top of the linkage tab. Open the blade about 1/3 of the way and let it snap closed 2-3 times, this centers the blade inside the bore, then tighten the 2 blades screws. At this point the linkage should be setting flush on top of the tab and the blades should be felling the blade stick inside the bore when you try to open it up. Turn the adjusting screw about 1/2 turn at a time until the blade no longer sticks and the throttle opens and closes smoothly. Reheat the throttle shaft and torque down the screws, let it cool off and the loctite will reactivate locking the screws back in place. After doing this, the gap should be closed up considerably and the idle should be in the 650-700 rpm range. If the idle rpms are any more than that, then I'd suggest trying to get Dan to replace it.
If Dan won't work with you on a replacement, LMK and I'll be more than happy to try to correct the problem for you free of charge. All you have to do is pay shipping both ways.
I understand. I'm only about 1.5 hour away from you and will be more than happy to offer my assistance if needed. LMK if I can help. Good luck.
I'm about 2 miles off I40 W Exit 138. I have modified 450+ of the 3.9, 5.2, 5.9, 3.7 and 4.7 TBs but no longer do it because of the arthritis in my hands. After that many TBs, if you didn't learn a thing or two about them, you weren't paying attention.
very true! but good to know your offering to help! always good to have someone close by to help out!! Jkeaton just keep it and get it fixed man...do it dont give it back just keep it and fix it!






