Fuel pump service manual pages
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
Same style that is on the fuel rail? Now I have the 2,000 shop crane/cherry picker I will lift the bed when I do mine down the road, lol.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Blow, yes, the fuel rail is where I bled off pressure.
Getting the bed off, looks like more work that dropping the tank to me. Some of teh bolts looked like a bugger to get too. Maybe not.
To drop the tank:
Tools needed:
Jack and scrap wood
Jack Stands
Wheel chocks
Flat blade screwdriver
13MM socket
a few extenstions
Ratchet
breaker bar (maybe? I used one. lol)
Procedure:
Jack up the back of the truck using the diff. as high as your jack stands can go.
Set your jackstands. Chock your wheels.
Now, to bleed off the pressure in the line. My trucks pump was dead as can be, so there wasnt much pressure built up. I took and cut the tube off of a tire inflation chuck that I got at autozone for 2 bucks. (looks like a rubber hose with the air chuck on the end.) I stuck the end of the hose in a soda bottle and put the other end on the fuel rail shraeder valve. I didnt get much out, but if your pump had the lines primed, you could get quite a bit out.
Now that there isn't any line pressure, slide your jack under the tank, and set a piece of scrap wood on. this helps to distribute the weight of the tank if there is any fuel in it.
raise the jack till it touches the tank.
Follow the tank straps toward the middle of the truck, you will see a 13mm nut holding them in place. I removed the rear first, then the front.
To get the rear strap out of the way, simply slide the end near the outside of the truck up and out the large opening. for the front, you will need to slide the tank toward the middle of the truck, and turn the strap so that it slides out the opening.
With the straps put of the way, lower the tank 6-8 inches. You will want to go to the passenger side of the truck and slide under. If you sit next to the drive shaft, you will have plenty of room to work.
On top of the tank, near the back strap, is where the fuel pump is. You need to undo the electrical connector that powers the pump, and the evap canister. (black for the evap and gray for the pump)
After the electrical is out of the way, you can undo the fuel line.
You can also disconnect the filler neck at this time too. I unhooked the rubber hose from the tank using a flat screw driver and loosening the clamp/pulling it free from the tank.
at the front of the tank, there is 1 large rubber evap hose connected to a barb on the frame rail. just pull it loose. there is also a fuel line to disconnect right next to that larger hose.
With everything free, drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from under the truck, and twist the ring that holds the pump tight to the tank. notice what way the float is directed, and what way the fuel pump outlet is pointing.
You may want to siphon out any extra fuel in the tank. It will make it a lot easier to put back in.
After you get the ring off, pull the pump and rubber o-ring out. If you didnt get a new seal, clean off the old one and re-use if possible. I was able to.
to put the tank back in, simply do the reverse. Jack it up and slide it into position. if you have a friend to help with this part, it would be great. I was supposed to and he didnt show up.
you need to leave enough room to work, so dont jack it all the way up. I left about 9 inches to work with.
Button it back up, put some gas in the tank. (I had 2, 5 gal cans that I siphoned out of the tank, that I didnt put into the caliber. lol)
to prime, turn the key forward, and let the pump build pressure. it may take a few cranks to start up as the air exits the lines.
but thats it. It took me 3 days of working an hour of so when I had a chance. I think if I had 2-3 hours of un-interrupted garage time, I could have had it done.
Getting the bed off, looks like more work that dropping the tank to me. Some of teh bolts looked like a bugger to get too. Maybe not.
To drop the tank:
Tools needed:
Jack and scrap wood
Jack Stands
Wheel chocks
Flat blade screwdriver
13MM socket
a few extenstions
Ratchet
breaker bar (maybe? I used one. lol)
Procedure:
Jack up the back of the truck using the diff. as high as your jack stands can go.
Set your jackstands. Chock your wheels.
Now, to bleed off the pressure in the line. My trucks pump was dead as can be, so there wasnt much pressure built up. I took and cut the tube off of a tire inflation chuck that I got at autozone for 2 bucks. (looks like a rubber hose with the air chuck on the end.) I stuck the end of the hose in a soda bottle and put the other end on the fuel rail shraeder valve. I didnt get much out, but if your pump had the lines primed, you could get quite a bit out.
Now that there isn't any line pressure, slide your jack under the tank, and set a piece of scrap wood on. this helps to distribute the weight of the tank if there is any fuel in it.
raise the jack till it touches the tank.
Follow the tank straps toward the middle of the truck, you will see a 13mm nut holding them in place. I removed the rear first, then the front.
To get the rear strap out of the way, simply slide the end near the outside of the truck up and out the large opening. for the front, you will need to slide the tank toward the middle of the truck, and turn the strap so that it slides out the opening.
With the straps put of the way, lower the tank 6-8 inches. You will want to go to the passenger side of the truck and slide under. If you sit next to the drive shaft, you will have plenty of room to work.
On top of the tank, near the back strap, is where the fuel pump is. You need to undo the electrical connector that powers the pump, and the evap canister. (black for the evap and gray for the pump)
After the electrical is out of the way, you can undo the fuel line.
You can also disconnect the filler neck at this time too. I unhooked the rubber hose from the tank using a flat screw driver and loosening the clamp/pulling it free from the tank.
at the front of the tank, there is 1 large rubber evap hose connected to a barb on the frame rail. just pull it loose. there is also a fuel line to disconnect right next to that larger hose.
With everything free, drop the tank.
Pull the tank out from under the truck, and twist the ring that holds the pump tight to the tank. notice what way the float is directed, and what way the fuel pump outlet is pointing.
You may want to siphon out any extra fuel in the tank. It will make it a lot easier to put back in.
After you get the ring off, pull the pump and rubber o-ring out. If you didnt get a new seal, clean off the old one and re-use if possible. I was able to.
to put the tank back in, simply do the reverse. Jack it up and slide it into position. if you have a friend to help with this part, it would be great. I was supposed to and he didnt show up.
you need to leave enough room to work, so dont jack it all the way up. I left about 9 inches to work with.
Button it back up, put some gas in the tank. (I had 2, 5 gal cans that I siphoned out of the tank, that I didnt put into the caliber. lol)
to prime, turn the key forward, and let the pump build pressure. it may take a few cranks to start up as the air exits the lines.
but thats it. It took me 3 days of working an hour of so when I had a chance. I think if I had 2-3 hours of un-interrupted garage time, I could have had it done.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 3
From: Kekaha, HI
Eric I love you like a brother but I wanna see the pics! LOL, seeing the troubles Richie is having I will probably start upgrading my fuel system also. Glad to hear you got it fixed though.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Blown, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being changing your oil and 10 being a custom SC under your hood... this is a 3. its more time consuming than anything. for some reason, my phone doesnt want to email my pics to me, so I will have to pull the card or find my data cable.