You guys are all running Efans, and they are FAR from being as reliable as the stock clutch.

An electric fan could fail and ultimately cause some pretty steep damage to your engine...However there are ways to tell when this happens (temp gauge, smoke)

It's the same story with an electric oil pump. My mechanic told me yesterday his friends corvette had an electric pump that shut down. He noticed the exhaust smoking right away and drove back home( about 2 miles).

His turbo was perfectly fine...

I could even take it an exra step and install an oil pressure gauge on the return line or an LED to flash whenever there is a voltage drop on the pump.

Anyways, I'm pretty set on the remount set up. I've really looked through the hood and under the car for about half an hour straight and there is just no way that set up its going to be easier. Bending tubes to a single side of the engine seems like a nightmare and I don't want to go twin turbo beacause it's just plain more expensive.

I plan to start buying some components by next Friday, so at some time before I'll post up a chart with the parts, brand and retailer I plan to get them from so you guys can let me know your thoughts.

Oh by the way, my mechanic said I wouldn't need an intercooler on the remote set up, but just in case I plan on running more boost down the line a small intercooler wouldn't hurt.

 

Lot's of great insights here. MitsuRaider, best of luck to you in this venture. I too like the remote turbo idea and think its a pretty good compromise for us who would like a lot more power but aren't necessarily going to drag race and need to worry about lag verses craming a turbo and its heat under the hood. And as you mentioned the creative plumbing that would need to be done for and underhood turbo. Keep us posted.

 

Thanks Eric. The electric pump is my biggest concern on that set up as well. Maybe some one in this forum has had a good experience with a certain brand?

Im all about taking advice from someone more experienced such as yourself, but when I balance my cons and pros from both set ups, the remote mount will be the best way for me to go, to avoid any modifications, more labor and additional cost.

If I was building a race truck then maybe it would be worth going that extra mile.

how did u blow the 14b on the talon?

 

Mitsuraider,

Your mechanic is right, for a street truck, you don't necessarily need an intercooler. But, someone did us some justice when designing our trucks. It turns out that we have quite a bit of room to stuff a generic intercooler in front of the radiator. As long as you size it correctly, you shouldn't see more than 1.5psi of pressure drop. You may want to contact Blown287; he started to size one for his setup. You would see cooler inlet temps, thus resulting in better throttle response and higher HP and torque numbers. The reason you don't have to have the intercooler is because of all the plumbing from the back of the truck to the front.

Since you are going with a remote setup, I would start looking for the STS components (scavanging pumps, mainly). But, creating the rest of the kit shouldn't be too bad. I'm not one for tapping oil pans, but I think I remember hearing that it was the preferred method for the oil return.

Take a look at this site for plumbing: These guys are only an hour away from me. I mainly use their bends and couplers. So far, Ive never had to bust out a spare at the track. Original ones from 2005 still hold during every pass on the dyno and at the track with 27psi.

www.siliconeintakes.com

Get yourself a wideband and a manual boost gauge, to start. This (plus a tuner) would be the least amount of things you would need to start the tuning.

I guess my next question would be, how much power are you looking to make? And where do you want that amount of power?

 

That reminds me, I should put a gauge before my IC and see what kind of drop I have....

I know it's extremely efficient in heat transfer, my temps in boost are about a degree above ambient. Pre-IC the intake temps would go as high as 160*F, I had even see a couple times where it pushed to 180*F.

I wouldn't run a turbo set-up without an IC now, or at least not as long as I did. I just didn't have enough time to weld mine together.

There's also a huge difference between an E-fan and an oil pump in use.

In many cases, the e-fan is or can be turned off above about 25MPH with no change in cooling, since the air passing through the rad at those and higher speeds is actually traveling faster than the fan can produce, with more mass.
If you're carfeukl you can actually drive around without ever turning the fan on, or having one installed. The fan is really only there for low speeds and sitting still.
The oil pump in this case, needs to run anytime the engine is running, to both scavenge the oil from the turbo and to return the oil to the engine so that it can remain lubricated as well.

 

Donkey thanks for that link, its going to help a lot.

I would like to eventually push 350 to the wheels.

 

Hmm. I have always ran the source from the oil filter housing when I had the 14B....but that was ages ago, when I was a young buck.

On the Garrett GT series turbos, they require a low pressure feed or an inlet restritctor. Most DSM and EVO guys will still use the head for the oil feed, and use the restrictor before the center section.

I blew my new 14B after 2 weeks with the 2.4L. Dear God, it surged so bad that it spun the compressor wheel nut off, went through the turbo, through the intercooler, and through the engine, out the the exhaust. So, when someone mentioned putting a 14B on a 4.7L, I had reservations.

 

Ouch! But dude..big difference from a 2.4 and a 4.7