So I am almost ready to begin the boost road. I believe before starting a project of this magnitude a lot of planning should be the very first step.

So if anybody is planning on following my set up as reference just know that it will be a lengthy process and I do plan on taking my time to make sure I do everything right.

I will be going with a remote SINGLE turbo. I originally wanted to do twins but it will cost more to buy two turbos, two wastegates..etc…Plus tunning can be a bitch..

Here are the challenges I’ve considered:

*Turbo
*Transmission cooler
*Electric Oil Pump
*Feed line/Return line to oil pump
*Wastegate
*Blow off Valve
*Bigger Injectors
*Stand Alone Comp
*Cone Filter for turbo
*Intercooler
*Bigger Fuel Pump
*Aftermarket Engine Rods
*Piping
*Labor
Aftermarket Gauges:
*Oil Pressure
*Air/Fuel Ratio
*PSI Reader
*Transmission Temperature.




If I'm missing anything please feel free to add.

Ok so this is a general breakdown of the whole process.

I could first switch from the stock computer to the standalone system I want to run. This will probably be the most expensive upgrade. The stand alone can completely replace your stock computer or simply tap into it to control the features you want only. This shouldn’t be too hard, just very expensive.

Next a transmission cooler off of AutoZone, to help with my transmission temperature after adding boost; this should be fairly easy to do.


I can “T” off a line off the oil pressure line and route oil to the turbo then install the electric oil pump relatively close to where the turbo sits with a line that returns oil back to the engine’s oil pan. Fairly easy to do.

I will need to upgrade my stock fuel injectors…usually expensive. But fairly easy to do.

I will need to upgrade the stocks engine rods, easy to do, but expensive.

Next I will replace the stock fuel pump with an aftermarket pump. Expensive, moderately easy.

This is where the project really gets fun:

The idea is remove the stock Y pipe and weld a better flowing Y pipe in its place.

That new Y pipe would be welded to a straight pipe that reaches the turbo, which I plan to locate right in front of the rear wheels(around the mid section of the truck)

Then I would place the turbo’s fresh air intake pipe under by the tailgate where I can route it a bit higher up so I don’t suck up any water while going over a deep puddle.

Then I will connect that oil line that I ran from the engine to the turbo and connect the turbo to the electric oil return pump.

I will need to run additional piping from the turbo to an intercooler ( wastegate in the middle close by the turbo) and piping from the intercooler to the intake( blow off in the middle close by the intake)

Of course I have to tap the new gauges in there.

Soooo? Simple enough?

 

have you looked at ststurbos they have nice kits avalible and if you want a nice turbo check out aerocharger there some mighty nice turbos

 

Add a manual boost guage, wideband a/f guage and controller, and manual boost controller to the list. I have never been a fan of STS kits, they require a lot of plumbing. To me, it would be more efficiant and easier to locate the turbo under the hood.

On the race car, we saw a significant boost in throttle response after shortening the pre and post intercooler piping to the throttle body.

 

I have looked into this myself and the only road block is money. If you know what you are doing and can find parts it wont be hard. Here is a list of the key parts you will need.

Oil pump
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump

Computer tuning (you do not need a stand alone computer)
http://www.hemifevertuning.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=25
Hemifever can tune the hell out a 4.7 with a sct tuner (blown287)

Turbo. look for a stock dsm 14b turbo and O2 housing im sure someone on here has one. I recomend getting the O2 housing because it will make the exhaust easier fab up and it has a hole for a Wideband O2 sensor.

Fuel
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-...rs/?itemid=153
The ford svt injectors are a direct swap on a dodge 4.7.

Wastegate.
A 14b turbo has a stock wastegate Set to about 12psi (i think). 12psi is more than enough on a stock 4.7 and a good starting point.

Boost controller.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-bo...ller-gauge-757
2 in 1 gauge and controller.

intercooler.
STS claims that you dont need a intercooler with a rear mount turbo but i would just to be safe. Your options are water/meth injection air to air or air to water.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-...ne-engines-51/

Exhaust.
I have read on many turbo forums that stock manifolds are better than headers for rear mount turbo setups.

There is tons more stuff out there but this should help you get started.

 

IMO i would try to veer away from remotes. They use way to much plumbing, arent too efficient, and are a bitch to diagnose if something goes wrong or you hit something in the road.

The only thing keeping you from doing it under hood is the custom Y pipe needed. any good exhaust shop or even if your handy with a welder...can make your own setup. it will save you in the end

 

As far as an Engine Management System goes, MegaSquirt is hard to beat.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MegaSquirt

There are several companies providing DIY kits and assembled units:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...lete-c-25.html

http://www.symtechlabs.com/catalog/megasquirt-c-23.html

I use a Symtech unit on my N/A 2.4 drag Neon. There is a very active on-line community for MegaSquirt.

I agree with the "money better spent on an engine bay turbo install" crowd. Whatever approach you use, don't cheap out on any turbo component, it's too expensive that way.

 

[QUOTE=ruger226;2495885]Turbo. look for a stock dsm 14b turbo and O2 housing im sure someone on here has one. I recomend getting the O2 housing because it will make the exhaust easier fab up and it has a hole for a Wideband O2 sensor.

QUOTE]

Well, I don't really agree with this. On my Talon, I was getting compressor surge AND choke with my 2.4L. Plus, that O2 bung is meant for a narrow band. I have always had better luck using a wide band at least 18" from the hotside of the turbo.

I would size the exhaust housing at a .63 a/r or bigger.

 

Tuning twin turbos is no more difficult than tuning single turbos.

I would also agree that a 14B would be WAY too small on a 3.7 or 4.7L

If you have an automatic, I don't know of any aftermarket EMS that will run the tranny, so the stock PCM would need to be retained for that duty.

Why are you replacing the rods, or just the rods?

I find it interesting that you would find replacing the rods easier than replacing the fuel pump.

There is actually way more than enough room to put a turbo under the cab, near the engine bay, so that the tubing can all be much shorter, and could even use the stock air box for an inlet.

I have ideas about putting a pair of turbos on my 3.7L, but the engine management is really the biggest thing holding me back. There's a lot of integration of the EMS into the truck, and that makes it difficult to remove, plus mine being an automatic, wouldn't change any of the shift parameters, unless I was able to get into the PCM anyway. I don't really like using two ECMs/PCMs just to run one drivetrain, but I am considering it, though I am looking at using a Delco ECM.

 

Great feedback guys that's exactly what I'm looking for. Ruger and tom, those links are great I'm already all over them.

Six shooter by rods I was reffering to the head studs.

Here is what I think about a turbo on our engine bay:

First of all if I was to put the turbine under the hood I would DEFINITELY go with a twin set up. why? Well just look at your engine bay, if you were to put one turbo then you would have to custom make a Y pipe that would bend from BOTH headers into one same side of the engine compartment. Then the turbo needs piping to breathe and flow pack into the engine. It would be extremely difficult to fit all this piping plus turbo unto one side of the hood. U will definitely be moving things around.

The remote set up allows for more room. Plus hey who doesn't appreciate a cooler bay compartment?

Sure there will be more lag. But hey the truck will definitely move faster.

I've checked out the STS kits and they are essentially what I'm trying to do on my truck, but are also heavily overpriced.