i run a cat back exhaust and i never had a problem with it

 

I make sure to buy beef that has that sticker on it. It's cheaper that way.

 

At least the sticker matches my truck.
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They only started the emission only inspection in August of this year, before that they would do a complete safety inspection.
And if you New Yawkers would stop clogging up the left lane cruising at the speed limit, we wouldn't have to cut y'all off.
It never fails, if I'm coming up on a vehicle who is just crawling along in the left lane, there is the NY plate! I'm not cuttting anyone off, that's the young jerks who don't know any better,....yet.


I have until the end of January to have it reinspected and get the new inspection sticker.

In previous years, I would go to 'my guy' for inspections, who would not worry about my tint, aux lights (they could not be above the bumper, but a plastic cover on them would be ok! ), no front plate (required but I never use one), and would always get it to pass emission-wise. But now with only the emission testing being done, I figured save the cash from the private inspections.

 

Yes I had similar problems with mine after a battery disconect. I had to drive 147 miles before the system ran all its test to prove to itself that all systems are good. Pain in the A$$.

 

Why is it $29? Because of the Wal*Mart mentality! Hey it's only, like, twenty bucks, its not like its thirty!

lol

 

You would've been fine if you'd have had only one "not ready." You are generally allowed one, but anything more than that is a fail. Like someone else said, changing the superchips tune will do this, so if you're going to go back to stock, do it some time in advance and get some driving in. In my opinion, if you're going to the dealer for inspections, set it back to stock. If they would update your computer and you have the supechips tune in, you might have issues getting your tuner to work after that. I think Superchips recommends that in their FAQ on their site.

I had this happen to me once, and generally driving around will fix the issue. But getting in it and driving 150 miles all at once is not necessarily going to fix it. What you need to do is go through a few complete warmup and cooldown cycles. You also need to get some highway driving in there as well, at least a good 5+ miles at over 55mpg.

The other issue you might have is that some of the emissions component systems do not even operate below certain ambient temperatures, meaning that some may never reset themselves in cold weather conditions because they are not even operating. I think you'll be ok on that though. It hasn't been that cold so far this and I think they were the EVAP ones anyway. I got this info right from a Chrylser tech.

 

He's totally screwed then, we couldn't hit 55mpg in our trucks if they were idling on top of a flatbed going down the highway!

 

So true... I did get a couple of long drives done so far. This explains what is happening, straight from an ASE technician.

It's not that their equipment doesn't see the sensors it's that they aren't seeing the sensors as being "ready". If there were an actual problem with the sensors then your CHECK ENGINE light would be on.

As you drive the computer has to test each system to make sure it is OK. The problem is that it can only test each system under certain driving situations so it maintains a system called "readiness monitors". Each readiness monitor is set to either "Ready" or "Not Ready" depending on whether the computer has had a chance to test it or not. If a system is tested and it does not pass the test it sets the CHECK ENGINE light. If a system is tested and it does pass then the light stays off and its readiness monitor is switched to "Ready".

When you get scanned for your emissions test it checks to make sure all of the systems have been switched to "Ready". This prevents someone from disconnecting the battery and clearing the computer's memory and then slipping it through the test before it has a chance to turn the light back on again.

I think what they were telling you is that the Oxygen Sensor's readiness monitor isn't set to "Ready" and setting this usually requires that the car be driven at about 50-55MPH for several miles.

Here is a typical drive cycle that you might want to follow a couple times before going in for a retest:

1. Start the engine. Idle the engine for five minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on and the headlights on bright.
2. Turn the A/C, headlights and rear defrost off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
3. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for ten minutes.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

 

and your supposed to do this where? without causing a massive pileup on the interstate? or other drivers blaring their horns and flying the bird at you....

 

thats exactly what i was thinking when i read this. theres nowhere here i can do that....not even up north.